Hey guys had to replace the battery on my zx1 cos of slow cranking speed.when fitted batt was spinning the engine over like a top whahoo--job done ---NOT-- 5 days later engine would not crank--batt voltage was 10volts--jump leads and backup battery employed started first spin so i left it running for 30 mins to top up the battery and whilst it was running i used my multi tester on the battery leads and batt was getting 14.4 volts from the charging system so i figured no alternator problem.---THAT WAS 3 DAYS AGO WITH NO DRIVING AND THE BATTERY HAS LOST ITS STARTING VOLTAGE!!! Where is the battery voltage draining to and is there anyway i can do a test myself to figure it out?????
Col

Hi Col,
Thanks for the post, and yes there is something you can do. This problem is called parasitic drain or something like that, have a look on YouTube, but basically you need an ammeter, or a multimeter set into current mode.
Something is still "on" when it should be "off". You can check the overall situation at the battery terminals (current/amps is measured in series, whereas you've been checking voltage in parallel). Make sure you select the correct option on the meter or you will blow it up!
Then do the same with each fuse in turn, until you find the one that's still drawing current when it's off.
But that's just an overview, google it a bit first for better detail!

Hi Jingle--Thanks for the reply--errr any chance you can tell me what does the icon on a multi tester(i got 3-- all different)look like for testing dc? voltage in "series mode"??
Also with me testing between battery leads with the engine running @14.4 volts i`m assuming the problem is not with alternator output--is that correct ??
Also(AGAIN SORRY)seen a couple of texts on you tube stating "test also the regulator"is the reg built into the alternator or is it somewhere on the car ?(why the hell didn`t Haynes ever print a manual for the v6 ??)
COL

Hi Col,
The alternator and regulator seem fine if you're getting 14.4v when running.
Current is amps or milli-amps on the meter, (not voltage), and is tested with the engine off. See pic, if the attach works! Use the icons like the white ones on the right, not the red ones on the left.

Hi again Col,
Just to make sure you are following my gist, do not connect the meter across the battery looking for amps, that's when you blow up the meter .... Do check the procedure on youtube or similar. Across the terminals is for voltage, but for amps you need a different procedure.

hi yes the attachment works thanks for the pic.found a good simple explanation on yt showing how to connect the tester in series with the battery and the negative lead--note the reading when tester settles-- the one at a time pull the fuses and check readings until you remove one and the tester goes sky high-------thats the one at fault--oh by the by tester leads are in Com and 10a sockets --unless you want to blow your tester up !!!!!
Too damn cold to stand out in a main road and do the test at the mo_gonna be -6c tonight so i`ve cleaned the battery lead terminals with a bicarbonate of soda/water solution---dried off--light grade of wet/dry paper(hate it when vid clips keep saying" using sand paper"fgs thats for wood only you numpties)for good contact and a light smear inside of clamps with vaseline against corrosion.
Just to make sure those two areas area are not under suspicion, i`v ordered new terminals and a neg lead Isolator so with the new battery fully charged i can do my short food shop trips and isolate the earth on my return until i find and sort the real problem without getting frostbite!!!!!
OH I`VE ALSO REMOVED AND LEFT OFF THE UNDER BONNET SWAY BAR FOR BETTER ACCESS IN CONTINUALLY REMOVING AND REPLACING FLAT BATTERIES.

Watch this space.
Col