Problems, fairly noisey even when warm, very ticky. Drops to 400rpm on idleing some times (may even stall), prob not as powerful as it should be (struggles past 90 tops out at 104, not that i go this fast more then once in a blue moon). Also randomly burns oil, ie seems to be ok for oil for ages then randomly drops to half the dipstick or less.

Has newish bosche super 4 plugs in so presume that cant be problem. Im going to do a compression test as per the other posting. any body got any more ideas?

Right its funny you should mention the stalling and idling thing cause I had that problem and solved it about 2 hours ago. Right,, ready? Open up your engine bay, right look at the air intake manifold, more importantly look at the top of the manifold you'll see a little screw situated down a hole, right that screw controls the air demand valve or to be more accurate it controls the idling speed , if you still cant find it look for the little wheel with the throttle cable attached, now look on top and you'll see it,(i.e you put your foot on the gass pedel and it opens up this air valve) now look on top and you'll see it, adjust that screw until your engine idles about 1000 or so,, after youve done this it will all run fine.... Hope this helped

Thanks for the tip i will give it a go, 1000 seems a bit high maybe ill take it to 800 or something. Will have a play around to see what i find, and of course report back.

Its the other post about the guy that had spent a lot of money on getting the valves replaced, has done this to me. Prob nothing wrong, maybe just the power steering sapping more engine power then it can take causing a near stall at times, 17" wheels eh. Will prob replace a few things after uni exams, dont want to let go of a car as good as this and it is 8 years old after all.

Never found anything but buy the time i started it up it went back to being perfect, could have been a loose connection or just the plugs being clean but now the idle is dead solid and it seems more like the engine that it was.

If you're going to adjust the airflow on the throttle body, you really should first short out the TEN and GND pins in the diagnostic plug. Unless you do this the ECU will be trying to keep the idle at the prescribed speed. With the adjustent correctly made you should find the idle is the same whether the TEN and GND are connected or not. If the idle varies erratically then it is more likely that you may have a problem either with the throttle not settling properly when your foot is off the gas, or you may have a small air leak somewhere in the inlet piping

Good Luck