I just started having this problem & im very confused. I noticed that when i was driving and taking off from 1st gear between 800rpm -> 2000 rpm there is no power, however after 2000rpm the car goes fine.
Along with this problem i noticed that when the car is idle at a set of lights the revs start fluctuating between 500rpm -> 1100rpm. Noticably this happened on that very hot Sydney weekend (last week)
by the way. in both occasions the engine temp gauge stays below the 1/2 way mark.

I only recently had it service and replaced the air filter. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what is wrong with my car.

Thanks in Advance!

mine does sumething like that wheni start it the revs drop right down then pick back up then drop down. personaly i think its something to do with the ECU so when my friend of friend gets his rolling road up an running hes gonna check it out 4 me!!!!!!
thanx
Nathan

Sensors? Check the connections to your air flow and Lambda sensors, then check the sensors themselves (careful the airflow one is fragile).

Check the ends of the HT leads for excess condensation (mosty probably only due to over-enthusiastic engine bay washing - aparently ).

Could try resetting the ECU.

Mark

Idle fluctuaction may be cause by the base idle being set too low. Warm engine, bridge the TEN and GND terminals out in the diagnostic connector and adjust the idle speed with screw on the throttle body

I had a similar problem on my ZXi. My local dealer suggested carbon build up in the throttle body. There was quite a lot in there (especially on the butterfly) so I cleaned it out (CAREFULLY) with WD40 and a toothbrush. HUGE improvement. The idle went a bit mad for a bit but I adjusted the stops on the throttle body and that seemed to settle it down. Not sure if that was a correct procedure or not though....

Never mind the butterfly being carbonised. Dependant on the mileage, it could be the whole engine thats carbonised.

See:

http://www.maz323f.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php4?t=1494

Rich

Thanx Rich thats cheered me up......

Hmmm, sorry!

On a brighter note - getting the problem sorted has been the best performance enhancement I've done so far!!!!!

hey rich how much did you have to pay to get the car sorted from the carbon crap?

If they;d have found it all in one go, about £500 (bearing in mind when it's apart you have to replace all the seals and cam belt etc), as it was, it was a grand.

I have been a bit busy (with xmas and all) but i will give all the suggestion ago.

I did notice that the problem with idling was occuring when i was either:
1. operating all the power windows
2. air con is on
3. stock stereo is pumping tunes
I suspect there is a problem with the amps/current being drawn from the battery?

I have also been suggested to do an ecu reset...what do you guys think?

When did you last have your battery checked ? There may be enough voltage for things to run, but not enough for them to run properly, especially when something else is drawing current. I've noticed in the past - it's only after you've fitted a new battery that you realise that your motor has been running like a dog for some time ...

HT Leads!?

Mark

Does anyone know how to get ECU diagnostic code? I know with other car makes/models you can determine faults from ECU codes.

Also does anyone know how reset the ECU on the 323?

Thanks Again!

You can get DTC's out of the PCM with an LED and a jumper wire (Paper Clip). When I get time I'll post the method Off the top of my head it's something like, connect the TEN and GND terminals in the Diagnosis Connector with a jumper wire. Then put the LED across the B+ and FEN terminals of the Diagnosis Connector. Don't try this until I have confirmed this procedure, we don't want any burned out PCMs do we now When you say reset, do you mean clear the DTC's