Hey all, not posted here for a while and yes i know im not an f owner anymore but i am genuinely stuck with my Audi. I have tried all of the audi/vw/skoda/seat forums with absolutely no luck at all whatsoever. I learned more from this site than i did all my other years combined due to the knowledge of everyone here. If i may (i know its in the wrong section too) can i pick your combined brains?

Hope you are all well and ready for Christmas.

Shoot man

Yes, as you're an ex-323 owner, I'm willing to try to help.

But ...
without knowing the question, here's the answer: Sell the Audi and get a Mazda again!

i REEEAAALLLLYYYYYYYY need a like button for the above post

[quote="jinglebells"]Yes, as you're an ex-323 owner, I'm willing to try to help.

But ...
without knowing the question, here's the answer: Sell the Audi and get a Mazda again![/quote]

Ditto...

[quote="jinglebells"]Yes, as you're an ex-323 owner, I'm willing to try to help.

But ...
without knowing the question, here's the answer: Sell the Audi and get a Mazda again![/quote]

Agreed, although the f made me buy a mazda 5 and thats never missed a heartbeat.

Anyway on to the Audi, its a 56 plate A4 B7 TDI Quattro 170, which i have had remapped along with an EGR delete blocked off correctly and changed on the ECU to EGR not present. These were all done a while ago and since then i had the oil pump changed to the correct one which should have been fitted at the factory along with my turbo being sent off and refurbished. The car has been running perfectly until about a month or so ago. Under full throttle the glow plug light would flash and the power would cut off for millisecond then continue acceleration. The glow plug light in my model according to the handbook stay on when there is a glow plug issue, and also flash when there is a current electrical issue. Anyway this got progressively worse very quickly. Now the car starts and idles, but when the throttle is applied it creepes up maybe around 100 rpm and stays there regardless of how far the throttle is applied. After perhaps 5 minutes of a warm up, it does drive, but i have to get around 3k rpm before i lift the clutch, otherwise it crawls along.

The car has been into my local garage for a fortnight (it was initially booked in for a diagnostic, then booked in over a week later for a full day as they are mega busy) and they were completely stumped also. Plugged into Vag-com it came up with an occasional intermittent error code saying bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor voltage too low. But as you know that is most definately not the cause of this.

The garage checked, the turbo, the maf, the egr cooler, they checked for vacuum leaks, throttle postition sensor and a load of other things.

So far without any error codes present i have started ticking off the common problems that arise without error codes. First i checked if the cat was blocked, i changed the fuel filter as this can get clogged can underfuel the car without a code, i removed the egr completely along with the throttle body and manifold and cleaned every bit of carbon build up.

My list of things to check were:
MAF
Cat
Reluctor wheel
Ignition trigger
EGR pressure sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Glow plugs

A lot of these i have checked using i908 carsoft diagnostic and scanner and a multimeter and checking the online within normal limits range and so far they all seem to check out. The Audi forums are about as much use a fart in a space suit, but then again i dont blame them as this is a strange one.

Now, when i unplug the pressure sensor (map sensor) part number 0281002401 located just after the intercooler and before the throttle body housing, the car runs quite well albeit in limp mode, the throttle response is immediate and it revs up to 3k rpm but limp mode is activated. It then throws up the error code p2100 Throttle actuator Control Meter Curcuit open. Then when i plug it back in the engine management light goes off, but the glow plug light continues flashing and it goes back to being undrivable. Im considering changing all sensors on the car before i bite the bullet and drop it off to audi as i would need to re-mortgage and pimp out my dog and guinea pig just to give them enough cash for them to look at it and say, yep its fu***d mate. Im genuinely struggling with this and i know the combined knowlege of you guys here we could nail this. Im open to any suggestions.

Oh and i was fed up with buses so i bought a broken project BMW 3 series 318 e46 for 120 quid as it was a complete non runner. I replaced the maf, resoldered the comfort control central locking relays and changed the battery and its running like new. It has my initials on the cherish plate that came with the car, i love me a bargain. Why cant b*****d diesel cars be this easy to fix.

Hi,

I'm not familiar with your Audi model but I've had a Subaru diesel which had its own litany of issues.

Firstly, I noted you mention a reluctor and ignition trigger. Given it's a diesel I would've thought the ignition is from the compression, moderated by the injectors? Also a reluctor I associate with a distributor which won't be there on the diesel?

Secondly, you haven't mentioned the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) - is your vehicle fitted with one? Has it been 'deleted'? You mention blanking off the EGR, I was wondering if the car does have a DPF and they've manipulated the software the DPF may not be regenerating- and therefore be blocked. This would prevent revving. It may partially unblock under heating from the exhaust, enough to get you running for them moment. I know this because someone (not me) decided to drive the Forester diesel with a problem until the DPF was physically blocked and stopped the engine. It could perhaps be related to the blinking glow plug light although I would more expect the DPF light.

Now the fact that in limp home mode it will rev points to the fact that the car is physically capable of revving, at least for the moment. I suggest the problem is more in the software or in something the software is seeing.

One other thing possibly: is the air filter clean/air passage unblocked?

Hope this in some way helps,

[b]Patrick[/b]

[quote="steven"][quote="jinglebells"]Yes, as you're an ex-323 owner, I'm willing to try to help.

But ...
without knowing the question, here's the answer: Sell the Audi and get a Mazda again![/quote]

the Audi, its a 56 plate A4 B7 TDI Quattro 170, which i have had remapped along with an EGR delete blocked off correctly and changed on the ECU to EGR not present. [/quote]

I'm not an Audi expert but I reckon you've described the cause there - it's a 10-year old complex machine that's been altered. VW/Audi don't like you doing that, they want you to pay them megabucks to keep it normal, so I wouldn't be surprised if there's something hidden in the firmware that cries foul and gives you a load of grief. Maybe too cynical, but you get my drift.

If you want to go flash and fast then it costs, and you'll need to keep paying.
Try a 1988 323 and fix it with a screwdriver. Sorry I can't be more help!
.

sounds like a re-map failure to me. the re-map will be telling the engine to do things its not exactly supposed too, results may equal more power and neglect other stuff, in the short term no problem but when other parts depend on those neglected ecu runs then build ups of crud can occur. when those build ups occur then who's to say the re-map can do anything about it. I've heard of diseasels going into a de-carbon mode where only 80% power is available. I wouldn't guarantee that the re-map has this feature