ANy comments on the 'Mazda tick' in my previous post? Had it again the other day (day after my drive below), it didn't go away at idle for a couple of mins, so turned the engine off for 5 or so mins- When I started the engine again, it was gone. Any ideas???

Been driving the 323 around town on the highways and freeways once a week or so recently. It's been growing on me, my young daughter quite likes it too.

The recent rear suspension fix has transformed the rear...now the front can't keep up with the rear! The front's suspected floatiness is now confirmed and even more exposed by the tied down rear. Still the suspension place said the front shocks were OK...

Took the 323 for a small run in the country last weekend. Weather's been gorgeous here in Canberra, mid 20's still, rather unheard of this late in the season, let alone for weeks in a row. Anyway back to the car...

Unfortunately, it's a bit exposed on Aussie country roads. At 100km/h it's running well over 3000rpm so rather noisy. The front is floating, and it lacks torque...I have the 1.8, how do you guys cope with 1.5's???

I've also gone soft and miss my cruise control, cup holders and remote central locking.

Still, it's a fun little thing to toddle lightly around town in, and if I can find some alloys w/ good tyres (current steelies have cheapo tyres), an immobiliser (so I can keep the thing- we didn't get the ones you guys got overseas) with remote (for the central locking) I'll be happier.

I'll have a few questions about things which I'll post later.

And I'll try to remember to take some good Oz photos for you guys in Europe/UK!

Cheers,

Patrick

Have you tried replacing the front drop links? Tiny part, but that so make a real difference, and yes, the 1.5 is a little low on torque , pulls ok once its going, just takes a while getting there haha.

I liked the 1.8 I used to have, was an auto so probably why (my old Jag spoiled me rotten in that respect )

If the engine is ticking check the oil level, especially if it goes away after a while or when you restart the engine. They have hydraulic tappets/lifters that seem to like the oil being at the max level (the v6 certainly does!) An oil change might help also.

How is your suspension place checking the shocks? just because there are no leaks doesn't mean much. one of my rears had gone and it was bone dry. the rear would wander and wobble, so replaced it and bingo, much better. You can try bouncing the car by pressing up and down on it a few times to get it bouncing. If the car settle quickly you should be ok, if carries on moving a lot, shock 'may' be suspect:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1W-UMx0qs6w

It's not scientific, but may help.

f you have any knocks or clunks on the suspension, its 90% of the time going to be the drop links. They're a $%@$$%$£ design and a bane of my life, and they can last anywhere from 200 yards to 2 years it seems. For a cheap component they a pita to change too; Hex key hole whilst you use a spanner to undo a self locking nut, you get about 10 turns and the Hex has rounded of, so out comes the cutting gear... My advice, get a garage to do it! Also fitting a front strut brace will help. If you can source a V6 one it will fit straight on the 1.8, or an aftermarket one would do. These cars should handle pretty well.

It seems to be with Jap cars that they rev high, I had a friend with a Civic Type R say the same thing, lots of revs to get anywhere fast. So yes, you will feel like you're revving high at speed and feel a lack of torque (especially if you're used to Aussie V8 power!), but that's why you have a 7k red line.... and an empty fuel tank shortly after As for the 1.5, I'm sure it's all the junk Smurf puts on his that slows it down

You might have an immobiliser fitted as standard. If you have a plastic ring around the ignition key hole, and a security light comes on momentarily on the dash when you start the engine = immobiliser fitted!

Alloys should be pretty common for your car, 4x100 pcd, just watch the offset of the rims, you want to be somewhere between 35-42 if I remember correctly. The higher the number the closer you are to the shock and could rub, lower and they stick out further, possibly catching the arches, though I think you have a little leeway either side. You also have a centre bore of 54.1mm, though you can get spigots/hub rings to pad that out if need be.

Jon

Thanks very much for your replies and advice smurf182 and Jon!

Here's some replies/comments to your suggestions and queries:

• The rear drop links have been replaced previously (seen the receipt and they still looked new with little if any play). Didn't inspect the fronts
• Yes I used a suspension mechanic- one recommended by a mechanic (and others besides)! I'm sure the mechanics were good because:
  
  [.] They did an inspection for free. And it took 3 hours on site all up, with a written report/quote at the end. ***For free*** - they obviously trust their work that much.
  
  • They picked up what I suspected (rear shocks) and you guys had highlighted/advised (sway bar links) etc.
  • I asked them what dampers they'd use. Answer: Sachs. 'nuff said.
  • Although they said the front shocks were OK (meaning:serviceable) they didn't say they wre good...
  • All suspension noises have gone
  • My 4 y.o. daughter, on her first ride after the replacement, said "Daddy, the car isn't so BUMPY anymore!"
  • they told me they needed to replace the bump stops and show me one. Actually they showed me a box of powdered rubber remains, caused by the oil splashing out of the shock...
  • They didn't quote me anything superfluous/"up-quote" me.
  • They have a waiting list (i.e. you need to book ahead)
  • They were able to answer other pointed questions, e.g. how the self-levelling suspension in our SH Subaru Forester works- they looked mildly surprised and they explained that was because they had just finished dismantling one to find out how it works...
  • Since I've driven out of the shop, ALL the abnormal suspension noises have gone...
  • They didn't laugh 'cos I brought in an older (but not vintage-old) car.
  • Now the front shocks were replaced earlier elsewhere. The mechnic my father took the car to did a good, basic job but did it to price- so the front shocks are cheapies. I beleive they're only ~10000km old but being shown up by the Sachs rears. Although front suspension ofen seems harder to tune that the rear on a FWD due to the extra weight (+drive) I suppose.
  • And no, you can't have 'em!
• Thanks for the alloys info- also some on my alloys thread.. Yes I do see quite a few on cars. Looked online but just haven't searched the local wreckers yet.
  
• Saw some MX-5 alloys that looked suspiciously similar (and same dimensions I think, 45mm offset though), trouble was they were in Perth (that's 3722km away as the car drives)!
• I'll double-check the oil but it was up OK last week, clean and clear tan-brown still too. I wonder if the viscosity range may be wrong...
• No immobilier. I dimly remember there being a small media debate about this at the time. Mazda Australia's excuse was "the market doesn't want them" (read: we're making more profit) even though the debate of the easy stealability of (particularly Japanese) cars was growing (so were the thefts).
• My previous car was also a 1.8 MP-EFI. But it was 'redlined' at 6k, breathlessa above 5k and tuned for mid-range torque (~2500-4000 in particular). It was a great, durable, tractable engine with a linear throttle response and bang-on gearbox ratios to hold it near its torque peak at highway (80, 100, 110km/h) speeds. The Mazda has the ususal Japanese tactic of 80% response in first 25% of accelerator movement, meaning when you 'put your foot down' nothing much extra happens.
• Now that previous car I drove for 320,000+klms. I'm still adapting to the idea of higher revving and I must admit I'm having a bit of trouble! (Must change up, must change up!). Have got it 500-1000rpm higher than before now
• I have a suspicion the exhaust is still not quite right- lots of short, (1.5km or less!) trips by my father trashed it. My first trip up the freeway seemed to blow all the innards out, rear was replaced. They replacemnet is not high quality I suspect and there may be leaks at a joint or holes, can hear the exhaust outside with the window down under WOT. I maybe losing back-pressure for the torque. Fine under light throttle, it's pulling out into 100km/h traffic's that a bit fraught... (spoilt by that other 1.8, our SP23 and Forester diesel's 350Nm- when it bothers).

Thanks,
Patrick

Hmmm, a bit frustrating at the moment. Either advertised correct alloys are 1000's of km away, or the ones nearby (read: within 3hrs' drive) are either steel, 5-stud ones or aftermarket generics.

Might have to troll the junkyards, Grrr!

Patrick

Ha ha ha, you are so right Jon,
Breakers are always good for new sets of wheels, luckily for me I have a jap specialist breaker yard close to me, you may find something suitable from a non Mazda, as long as the pcd, bore and offset are compatible, just remember to hang onto your Mazda centre caps if you have them.

Took it for a small spin last night... the relative lack of torque (compared to more modern/larger engines) make it sure appreciates a Canberra (almost) winter night's cold, dense air. It did/does struggle on hot summer's days esp. with A/C.

A relative air density altitude calc put me at (almost) AMSL (<100ft), vs Summer where it's approx 3500ft on a hot day. Mind you, a 'best case' scenario could by -757ft, sure it'd rip around nicely in that. Although I realise we can't hit the density altitudes you northern hemispherians may get in a deep freeze.

Cheers,

Patrick

You sure the old gurl doesn't need a tune up ?
Mine's blisteringly quick & I'm keeping her under 5000rpm as I'm (sort of)
running the engine in again after it's 1st owners (maybe) grandpa driving style

_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Yes, it's OK... nothing particularly bad and the car's been serviced regularly. Starting, running, etc seem fine. I too am not really going over 5000rpm...result of 320,00km in a N13 Pulsar!

Probably need to learn to rev it more. Also used to more torque and lower down, not from a V8 but SP23, the Pulsar and turbo diesel (close to V8). I keep getting caught about 1/2 -1 gear too high (or 1000-2000 revs too low). If I give it some stick in first it gets off sharply, surprises a few at the lights sometimes who think it's a doddery old car.

Comparison:
323 1.8 160Nm/4000rpm/1180kg = 7.38 kg/Nm
SP23 2.3 203Nm/4500rpm/1232kg = 6.06 kg/Nm
N13 1.8 151Nm/3600rpm/~1130kg (sedan)? = 7.48kg/Nm
Forester 2.0D 350Nm/1800-2400rpm/1520kg = 4.32kg/Nm (guess which one wins that equation... when the DPF is cooperating )

Patrick

Just supercharge the 1.8 = Problem solved !

_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Some diabolical (but not unusual) weather on the East coast of Oz recently- hope all's OK with you Madaz! 15C in Canberra means we're out in T-shirts and shorts by the way, especially this time of year

Luckily (for me) the weather was merely rainy, calm and very mild for this time of year. With >1 day's rain, fog was on the hills, the roads were clean of oil and even the roos were hiding. Perfect time for a test run up the local hill without getting dirty for some misty photos!

Caffeine and grip test
Firstly, the local run for a cup of coffee. Mix of local, suburban and urban highway running, intersections, lights et al. Confirmed grip levels poor from the cheap (but new) tyres, cornering is a tiptoe-ey affair. White lines at the lights produce immediate wheelspin under very little throttle. At least with the deep tread there's no aquaplaning. Need to upgrade- must investigate those 15" rims...6.5hr drive away! I've not done gumtree, let alone remote purchases and shipping on gumtree so I may ask a few questions of people's valuable experiences, if you don't mind?!?

Rain-X and rear wipers
Rain-X seems to work well on this vehicle- must be the aerodynamics. It's not quite so effective on our 3.

I found to my chagrin the rear wiper is intermittent only- and slow at that! Not suitable for Oz rain, good thing I have the Rain-X on the rear window (actually all inc mirrors) as well. Anyone have a continuous rear wiper and/or made a mod to do so?

I have Rain-X antifog on the inside too, but it's been so dry recently that the car hadn't absorbed any moisture so the windows remained clear. The heater and A/C went on to keep it so, all remained crystal clear, the best I've had in a looong time.

Up the hill- tuning/torque test
Took the car up the local hill (Mt Ainslie) to test Madaz's idea that the tuning was off. No problems, ran perfectly smooth- no pinging, stuttering, hesitating or any sort of carry on. In general it pulled 5th then 4th OK, when revs get below ~2500 it struggles, needed 3rd, even 2nd for the steeper, slower part near the top. Just the nature of the beast!

Actually, on the way back it was an uphill entry ramp onto the 100km/h freeway that I missed torque most- even revving it out in 2nd/3rd only does so much.

And now the fun bit, the photos...
Misty rain


Aircraft beacon


Cheers,
Patrick

All good here Pat just a bit waterlogged in my backyard - Thanks for asking !
I too miss the 'talk' (lol) of my MX6 but appreciate the 1.8 for what it is.
Compared to say a Toyota 3K it's bloody marvelous !!
I reckon you're too spoilt with the rear wiper, mines the same - no complaints

Relearn how to drive the 323 & you too will be grinning once again

_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

The torque issue's been solved by my new acquisition, a 2011 BL2 Mazda3 Diesel.




That means I've got a fleet... Diesel,3, SP23 and 323 plus a Forester and something's gotta give. I want a 'plaything' and between the SP23 and the 323, it'll be the SP23. It's just better all around without adding too much tech-whizz-banggery. Stronger structure, full airbags, great brakes and wheels, more power/torque with better fuel economy, ABS only and no ESC nannies!

But unfortunately that means the 323 has to be mothballed back at my parents' place. It might be happy it's going back home, it will have a nice warm Sydney garage rather than a windy, cold Canberra carport! Better it's mothballed though...my parents were actually told by their Mazda dealer recently to "hang onto it" as older Mazdas are now coming more into demand.

On the other hand, I now have somewhere I can ship stuff more easily and it's closer to the Sydney wreckers (of which there are many) for bits 'n' pieces.

With the SP23 due for a much needed suspension overhaul (some other bits due too, e.g. tinting)- perhaps some Bilsteins, maybe even coilovers- the 3 Diesel (3-D?!) will be the everyday driver.


3 MZR-CD 360Nm/1800-2600rpm/1438kg = 3.99kg/Nm (guess which one wins the equation now!)

Patrick

Well at least you don't have to worry about mags anymore !!

_________________________________________________________________
Speed is subjective to only how far you keep your right foot down..

Hi all,

after 'mothballing' the car at my parents' I had it serviced and rego paid during Sep so I was finally able to get up there and take it out this weekend.

I'd bought a CTEK charger on special during winter and hooked it up so the battery was in A1 condition.

In the meantime I have also ordered and received a steering wheel repair kit to fix the loose steering wheel grip (it twists back and forth). I didn't have time to fit it last weekend but with a bit of luck will be up there this coming weekend and/or the next so will let you know how it goes as I believe this may be a common problem with these vehicles.

First thing was a wash, the water still beaded really well so no need to polish or Rain-X.

So out I went, everything working beautifully. A/C got a run to make sure it was working/lubricated. Off to the cafe for a coffee (parked right out the front of course ) then around to a couple of old friends to say hello. Nice way to spend a sunny afternoon, sorry I didn't take any pics. Only couple of minor gripes are a high clutch take up (hope it's not wearing out) and a somewhat uneven idle esp with A/C on- drops about 50 rpm.

There was a few things I was hoping to fix/improve over the past few months but unfortunately I let work get in the way. Several opportunities for spares have been missed- several cars incl possible alloy sets have come and gone at the wreckers- one lists its vehicles online and there were no less than 6 or 7 in at one time (2 of each of series I, II and III). Oh well, c'est la vie as it's still good, original, running and roadworthy!

Cheers,
Patrick

Photos please sir!

Summer's back...well, almost! Weather's still quite changeable here and coller than it could be, more than usual for a east-coast Aussie spring. ~24C yesterday, not so nice today and around 9C in Canberra with wind and showers...

Had a choice between going to the wreckers and cadging around for some bits or taking my daughter for a warm sunny Sunday trip to the beach...guess what won out

Once I reacquainted myself with revs I found the car more agreeable, and it certainly prefers being on the freeway at 110km/h. All ran faultlessly and the 5 y.o. snoozed in the back seat both to and from destination. Came back in the dark, it's really not a car for dark country roads with roos with those headlights, both lo- and hi- beams inadequate.

Mind you it's only when I was processing the photos tonight I had the bright idea to turn the car around...these things skip your mind when you're making sure your 5 y.o. doesn't run under a vehicle whilst trying to snap a clear shot in a busy car park as the shadows lengthen. Maybe in a couple of weeks' time when I'm back there, if I get a chance to take the car. Nevertheless...

...As you wish! The location's late afternoon Ocean Beach at Umina. We actually spent the arvo just up the road at Ettalong Beach but for photos the road view was blocked by fencing/bushes/walkways/playgrounds/etc. Ettalong's a sheltered water in a bay so it's great for the littlies plus it's well off the main highway so doesn't get through traffic but still only 1hr door-to-door.



Sorry about the fences (never mind the red-lidded bin almost cleverly hidden behind the car in one pic) but that's the closest I could get to a beach shot.

Cheers,
Patrick

Hi all,

I forgot to mention last week that I had fixed the loose steering wheel grip using a locally sourced repair kit. I'm in the throes of writing a post/article for a thread about it, hope to have it done in a day or two.

Cheers,
Patrick

(Yet again, sorry for the appalling pun that's in the subject line...well, not really sorry...yet again! )

Hmmm,

it seems I haven't been posting on this thread whilst trying to sort out wheels/tyres and positing on the wheel/tyre related threads I started here and here too) .

So the upshot is I've obtained some alloys and in the process of obtaining the tyres.

Guess I should update this thread with those pics too, but it's rather late tonight/early this morning so stay tuned over the next few days.

Patrick

In case you've missed it...I've got the alloys shod with new tyres. The details are in my other threads on alloys and tyres.

Now all that remains is to transport to the car (Canberra to Sydney), fitting and taking 'em for a spin!

Patrick

P.S. Oh and no doubt photos for y'all too! So I hope the alloys suit the car.

Have been able to get the wheels up to fit...yet. Had a better offer, take my daughter out camping during my week off Hopefully get to it this weekend and/or across the holiday season...SOON!

In the meantime took the car for a run around on a hot Saturday afternoon and it performed faultlessly. A/C super cool, engine temp showed not a hint of "hot under the collar" either. Rest of of the car performed as it should and engine response seemed to have benefited from the run up/down the freeway last time in spite of the hot air temp and power-sapping A/C. Even the AM radio reception was good allowing me to listen to the cricket. Not bad for a 22+ y.o. car!

If anything I may have given it a rattle by giving it some stick and shaking loose a resonator plate or similar.

Patrick

I think they look quite good... what do you think?


Car photo's a bit dark as it was taken under the shadow of an afternoon thunderstorm. However that gave me the opportunity to test in both wet and dry conditions, albeit before the surface finish was worn off and not above urban highway speeds.

Here's a comparison pic of the new tyres (right) to the old ones (left).


The verdict? They're better looking, sharper handling, better gripping, MUCH better gripping in wet, surprisingly quiet and stable tyres.

Patrick

Hah.. jus saw them.Nice looking tyres and rims.Happy to hear that they satisfy you.

Thanks maZZda! I know the photo makes them look like pixie wheels in those large arches, but they appear better "in the flesh."

Patrick

It fitted in the Mazda3, now it fits in the 323! I think I'll have to update Serena's "You can get ANYTHING into a BA boot, I tell you" thread. Paddle, swimmers, etc all loaded in various spots. Note Kiddie seat (with 5 y.o.) in there too!


The front seat did need to be pushed forward to allow it to fit- just!


Confession:
It's a kiddie kayak. 180cm long.

Patrick

...one of which was the annual wash and polish, perhaps some tyre black, vacuum out, etc. Another was another photo with the mags "in the wild" where they actually look quite reasonable. Unfortunately I didn't get to any of the above across Christmas/New Year, in part to due to the beach equipment experiment (post above) and trying to buy/configure 3 PCs for myself/various family members!

But I will get to it!!! AAArgh!!!

...a set of custom fit Rola aero roof racks!


There is another 323 BA just 'round the corner and down the road, I thought it was in use until I saw the plates off it last week. Spying the roof racks, I summoned up the courage to have a look- it was being dismantled, so I knocked on the door...

...Upshot is I offered $25, was told he was going to ask $20 so I didn't argue!

Took off home to get the tools (security bolts fitted) and some penetrating lube, They look like they'd been there since the car was new- and with a build date of 1996 (seen later), they probably were. My dread at how stuck they might be after 21 years was unfounded, they came off as easy as pie- didn't even need the penetrant lube.

So for those that don't know Rola, they started in the 80's in Oz and made top quality gear. As far as I know, Rola were the first of the 'aero' style bars (which these ones are). The design hasn't changed since and they are still sold.

Put it this way: I look up on ebay.com.au...
New they are (RRP) $382 (EUR 270, GBP234)
'Refurbished' (yes there is a company that does this- funnily enough, in the same suburb as the car) they are $189 (EUR133, GBP116)
Second hand ask for $70 (EUR49, GBP43)
So $20(EUR14, GBP12)??? Score!!!

And after 21 years in the Australian sun? The surface deterioration you can see is it. They really were well made with quality materials. As a result I've cleaned them up- I'll put the info up on the restoring plastic / rubber trim along with Madazinbris' info on his same model roof racks.



Patrick

Wow, they look a lot nicer than the ones Mazda sold.

Thanks- wait 'til you see them all cleaned up!

It's possible these could have been a dealer fitment in Australia. I believe the local subsidiary companies (i.e. Mazda Australia) may often source accessories such as these (roof racks, load barriers, tow bars, trailer wiring, etc.) from local aftermarket suppliers to meet local regulations, conditions and requirements; the dealers may then add their own list.

Or they could just have been added 'aftermarket' by a previous owner!

Patrick

P.S. Rola have just changed their website overnight, it's a lot flashier and a lot less useful. For example, the fitting instructions seem to have gone. I think they are owned by anther company, CEQUENT, by the looks of things. Rola don't have an EU/UK presence. However there is another Australian company, Rhino-Rack which do have an EU presence and have similar bars. It seems they may have owned Rola for a while... ref here. Another company, Hayman Reese, a well-known Australian tow bar maker seems to be owned by Cequent too now.

And I forgot to add I tidied up the steering wheel needle marks with a piece of fine emery paper this past weekend. No more little scratchy bits sticking up!

The injected material seems to be holding well, the steering wheel grip doesn't twist in my hands anymore.

Patrick