Hi lantisv62500,
Methinks you are being a bit harsh on yourself. If you don't try, you don't do. And you don't learn, either.

Whilst you may not have achieved the correct result first time, you eventually did and look at what you learnt along the way.

• You started from a known, 'safe' combination.
• The effect of fuel pressure variation and the effect of various items upon the pressure.
• How to change various items whilst maintaining your vehicle in a tractable and running state without doing damage. I think this is no mean feat.
• You bothered to measure your changes as you went.
• You determined the limits of the original ECU and your measurements ledmto your conclusions.
• As a result you made a correct choice in changing your system, based on empirical evidence.

If you'd simply changed the ECU to begin with it may have worked, but you wouldn't have gained the knowledge above. Nor would you have a fall-back running (if not ideal) ECU setup if it didn't work.

All up, it's only wasted if you didn't learn or achieve something. You did both. And idiots don't learn let alone learn by trying.

Frankly, I'm in bloody awe of your achievements.

Thanks for the reply Pitrack

I did learn a huge amount through this.
I really wanted to make the KF33 ECU and MAF work as I felt that the MAF was a better option than the VAF.

I believe this is called Research and Development (also possible reverse engineering occurring here).

It kept me thinking.

I will have to admit to enjoying the challenge, so after all this research and development I looked into the options concerning the ECU.
The best option if I was "Hellbent" on a 260-300hp NA KL was a Link or Haltech ECU but that was never the plan.
The car is a every day driver so power and economy were always the plan. (Spending $3K on a ECU and tuning - No thanks)

The KLZE comes with a number of ECU's/MAF/VAF combo's depending on the car the engine came from and the cars I was most interested in were the manual versions of the MX6 and 626.
The Eunos 800 used a MAF but are all autos and due to the Mazda auto not being up to the 200hp KLZE it was detuned to 170hp.
In fact it seems all the auto KLZE are 170hp max.
Therefore the ECU of choice was the KL31.
All my checking of cars at the wreckers confirmed that the KL31 ECU (Big Number on the label) with VAF (JE50 - 197200 - 0060) was the 200hp / Manual (My engine is a Jspec and had no EGI)
At the time I felt that the VAF was a backward step but it is only used by the ECU for the initial / light throttle work and is wide open much of the time and the ECU then utilises it's maps instead. (Take your air filter off and run the engine and watch the cone - not much throttle is required to move it all the way back)
The other ECU of interest is KL36.(Big number on the label)

I always found this in auto versions always with a EGR set up and the EXTRA Temp sensor by the water top up cap.
And like so many others I assumed that this was for the radiator fan control.
Sadly I was wrong.
Its for the EGI/EGR system.
I was able to confirm this with a MX6/AUTO/EGR/KL36 ECU fitted car which allowed me to reverse engineer (trace the wires) to and from the ECU. (Wish I had known that 18yrs ago.)
I also have the wiring schematics for both the KL31 and KL36 ECU and yes was only able to confirm that in the last few months. .
I also have the KL33 ECU wiring schematics so will scan and post at some point.
(The KF33 is for the KFZE 170hp in the Lantis Type R)
By the way the wiring for the KL31 and KL36 are NOT the same.
The Temp sensor pin is different.
KL31 goes to 2E and KL36 goes to 2G.
How did I find this out. You don't want to know.(read the next post)

Carrying out the ECU change is NOT an easy job and if you are not good with understanding wiring schematics and how it all works, soldering and running extra wires etc I would find someone that is and enlist their help.

Be warned.

That sounds ominous

Here's a photo of the ECU installed and you can see all the heat shrinked joins.

I had to go from 4 plugs (KF33) down to 3 plugs (KL31) and therefore had to redo all the wires once I had figured out where they went.

This photo also shows you the labels I talked about in the post before.
Note the Big number on the label is KL36 but the little number is KL31. Big number is the one that matters.

60% of the wires were easy as and then about 35% needed additional wires run or a bit of thought.
The last 5% took much longer and trial and error.
The fan wiring took 18yrs and I am still not totally convinced I have it right as the fan turns on too early.
The 626/MX6 have a three relay system and the Lantis has a two.
It shouldn't make any difference but it seems to so I have ordered a Davies Craig Thermatic fan controller to wire in that I can set to the appropriate temp for it to turn on. (Will take power wire from the relay and utilise that to run the controller - power when keys on)

If you look very closely at the centre plug you will see a cut wire coming out from 2G.
2E is where this wire went.
I cut the wire while the engine was running (no difference experienced) and then connected to 2E and bang the engine ran much better.
Thinks you do
The big RED and BLACK wires are for the fuel pump.
The fuel pump relay is a 50 amp Narva and I ran a 12v and Ground from the relay to the pump.
I hated the push on connector for the Ground so set that up as a bolt on.
Any better I don't know but makes me feel better.

Here's a photo of the Dash.

From the Factory it had a carbonfibre look to it.
You can also see the rev counter red line at 7400rpm and the speedo at 364356km.
Would love the Tacho in the middle and the speedo where the Tacho is.
Can not say I don't use it.

KL31 ECU.

Here's the final wiring for the KL31 ECU by Plug.
Note these are looking at the front of the plugs not from behind.(wire side)

And here's the wiring schematics for the KL31 ECU with a 7 pin Distributor.
There is also a schematic for 9 pin distributors.
I utilised this set of schematics when wiring up the external coil and ignitor etc.




I copied all the schematics 18yrs ago at the Auckland Ford and Mazda Dealer who were more than happy to let me spend a couple of hours going through their Workshop Service Manuals and copy whatever I required as they thought I was "MAD" at the time.
Therefore the reason for the condition of the scans.
Hope they are helpful.

I am quite an old man. Back in the 80's ? when engine management became common the general opinion was that amateur car fiddling was dead. The pundits of those days did not take into consideration the ingenuity of man....well some men!

I am very impressed by all of this.

Its lots of fun and keeps you young even when you're knocking on the door of 60.

Prior to doing the KLZE my daughter and I rebuilt this 1983 Daihatsu Charade Turbo Rally car.
Full cage, racing seats, coilovers, intercooler, oil cooler etc etc.
She was a junker but we stripped it right back to the skin and rebuilt it anyway.


Its a blow through Carby and we are having fueling issues.
Going to fit a AEM AFR system to help us get it going right.
Bet that brings back memories for some.

OH MY GOD! that Charade is lovely! Really really liking the retro, boxy jap cars at the minute and that Charade fits the bill quite nicely!

Also - nice job in posting the wiring diagrams up mate. People are always looking for this sort of thing and it's not always readily available. Awesome work on the ECU by the way!

KFZE wiring schematics.
Here are the ECU schematics for the KFZE KF33 ECU.
They will be in two posts as I have a fourth schematic with the external wiring for the coil and ignitor.



If you want I can email full schematics as I note by the time I crop and size them they have lost some of the details.

Here is the schematic for the external coil and ignitor for a KF.

Happy New Year all.
Here's some more engine bay pics.

And some more photos of the car.

This is a beautiful car
Will never understand why it wasn't sold in Europe
I think it would have great aceptance
Better than the 323S we had

Update 27 July 2016
Davies Craig Thermostatic Fan controller now manages both the first and second fan as the computer seems to turn the fans on far too early.
Installed the controller up the right way up this time and ran the addition wires to the first fan and hooked up the air con control wire so the first fan is turned on when the A/C is working.
The install went very well but did require a bit of time as I took the drivers side wheel, arch protector, and headlight/indicator off so I could access all the wiring.
Finding the right power wires etc was really easy and the unit is very easy to set up and adjust as required.
Have set it at 75c and is going very well.

My son picked up a set of Works mag wheels 17x 7 40 offset and convinced me they were prefect for the Lantis.
Only trouble was two were painted gold and two were chrome and in poor condition.
My daughter had the chrome wheels acid dipped but they came back requiring a lot of sanding which I did before they were ready for paint.
The end result is very nice and they should help the cars looks a little.

My son works at a Tyre company so will fit up some 215/45's for it at the family discount rate

And this is all a Christmas present from the kids

Nice wheels. They should fill the arches nicely.

Re: fan and temp,

Lovely those fans. Though about it on my old N13.

Just a generalisation, 70C may be rather cold for a modern (pressurised coolant) engine? Usually they want to be up around 90C, that's around where the thermostat might open?

Otherwise there's little point with the fans on and the thermostat closed. Unless perhaps there's a bleed port (small hole in thermostat) like on Subarus?

My old N13 Pulsar had similar problems. For some reason the secondary fan wouldn't activate at all and at one point the fans wouldn't activate when the A/C came one. The solution was to 'hot wire' the secondary through a relay trigged off the primary and also to trigger the primary off the A/C compressor. The result was effective cooling both of the engine and the A/C, especially when stopped at lights!

My N13 was listed for thermostat opening at 91C, fully open at 103C. Fan cut in at 100C, cut out at 95C. Although it had a penchant for having the thermostat stick open, thereby running cool in anything below about 25-30C until the thermostat clicked shut through some shock (revving sometimes helped).

However as the car aged, the N13's fan's temp trip point seemed to rise (at least it did on the gauge). I put this down to either the sensor and/or the wiring ageing, causing various voltage drops that affected the reading. Might be the same on yours, the Mazdas seem to have relatively 'weak' main +ve/ grounds. Both my Mazda 323 BA and SP23 show very substantial voltage drops if you activate 2 or 3 electric windows at a time. 3 will drop the voltage so substantially (down to around 10V at the cigarette lighter) on the 323 it will almost stall (battery is good).

Patrick

Hi Patrick, Thanks for your thoughts.
The engine temp sensor is a brand new one.
The Davies Craig temp sensor is a probe type that is installed in the radiator fins instead of in the water, therefore not certain that the temp I set at (and which is displayed) is the water temp.
Will have to do some tests to confirm.
The cars temp gauge is reading just below half when warm.
I am thinking of setting up the Davies Craig Fan controller to do everything.(both fans with inputs from AC and ignition).
Just need to confirm the temp readings

You're probably about right then, the external temp's never going to be higher than the engine coolant temp- if it is, you've got other things to worry about!

Out of interest, does it go near the top or bottom of the radiator?

Patrick

Hi Patrick,
Sorry being a bit slow to answer the question.
Yes the probe is very close to the top radiator inlet as Davies Craig instruct.
I have just had a reply back from the tech support at Davies Craig and they confirm that the probe installed in the radiator fins reads 15c less than the water temp.
Therefore my setting at 70c is 85c water temp.
Thanks
Craig

Here's a photo of the old and the newer.

What do you think - Lantis or RX8

download/file.php?mode=view&id=3037

Replaced the Mazda 5 spoke mags which I have had for the last couple of decades with a set of "Works" CR Kai 17" 7" wide bronze wheels.
Fitted them up with Pirelli Cinturato P1 tyres. (Quiet, good comfort/wear and grip for a every day driver)
Taking a little bit to get accustomed to the look but I think it will grow on me

loving those wheels mate! Suit the car just nively, nice mod

I agree with Lerch , wheels look good.

Had a week with the wheels and they are finally growing on me.
Maybe if I had them Silver instead of Gold?
Was thinking of dropping it a bit but am good with the height now too.
The 32 offset sets the wheels just back in from the edge of the guard so fit is nice and square.
Here's a few more photos.

I was thinking the same re: recolouring. I guess something in a similar tone, namely from black, through gunmetal grey, to grey, silver, even chrome or a metal finish. Or perhaps a combination?

I suppose it depends on whether you want the wheels to be a visual highlight or not for the car. A little 'Photoshopping' of colours for the wheels on a side-on pic of the car might help. You could even try, e.g. black wheels with a chrome tyre rim, or spokes painted grey/chrome with black in-between.

Replacing the orange side indicator with a clear/white-frosted one that would also enhance the effect.

Let us know how you go!

Patrick

I would go dark grey on the wheels - light enough to see the difference between the rim and the tyre, but dark enough to look different from the car. Or something like that