Guide to fitting an alarm! - keep

**Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:06 pm

Well you'd have the output from your alarm unit going into your relay, then the output from the relay would connect the IG1 and START wires on the ignition barrel. I'm not sure what colours they are but poke around with a multimeter and you should be able to figure it out :thumbleft:

How certain are you that you don't have an immobiliser? Post a photo of your ignition barrel, we'll tell you for definite :lol:

**Joined:** Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:56 pm **Posts:** 15

Was reading another post which I quote "If its a 95 car it may not have an immobiliser - easy way to tell is if you look at the ignition barrel. If the barrel has a grey flat circle around it, then you have no factory immob. If you have a black raised ring around the key slot, you do".. I checked earlier and all I have is the grey flat circle.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=43443

I'll poke around again tomorrow on the barrel.

**Posted:** Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:27 pm

That would be something I said I think

Indeed -if its just a grey flat circle, no factory immob on your car :thumbright:

**Joined:** Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:56 pm **Posts:** 15

yeah sloth it was one of yours

**Joined:** Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:52 pm **Posts:** 5152

I need a bit of help fellas, i've got an alarm in mine but the company that installed it didn't install a boot or bonnet pin switch despite giving me a cat 1 certificate, so I shall do this myself as the company is down in London where I got the car.

Whats the best way to mount these switches without causing rust issues :/ I'm tempted for the rear to mount it on the plastic black housing of the rear light, and then tap the ground into a bolt....but unsure for the bonnet one. Although not an F, it is jap, so should be similar.

**Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:23 am

Well for the bonnet, you gotta mount it in metal really so just drill a hole, then paint it before fitting the switch? :dontknow:

**Joined:** Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:52 pm **Posts:** 5152

[quote="HughieW"]Well for the bonnet, you gotta mount it in metal really so just drill a hole, then paint it before fitting the switch? :dontknow:

[/quote]

Either that or can't you ground it on something else? Because some switches are plastic so won't ground themselves, and surely if painting there would be no ground?
Which leads to my next question, usually if i paint a hole I drill for example when screwing it in it scrapes off the paint lol.

What a pain two small switches can be, why they never installed them I'm unsure.

Hopefully gonna solve my previous alarm problem by installing a dual zone proximity sensor instead of the ultrasonics, fingers crossed.

**Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:54 am

If it's a metal switch, use a zinc or stainless steel washer - it will ground it, and it shouldn't rust :thumbleft:

If it's a plastic switch, it will need grounding seperately. A plastic switch won't remove the paint from where you've drilled, and you can ground it on a hidden bolt somewhere :thumbleft:

**Joined:** Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:52 pm **Posts:** 5152

[quote="HughieW"]If it's a metal switch, use a zinc or stainless steel washer - it will ground it, and it shouldn't rust :thumbleft:

[/quote]

Would the hole behind not rust it though?

If it's a plastic switch, it will need grounding seperately. A plastic switch won't remove the paint from where you've drilled, and you can ground it on a hidden bolt somewhere :thumbleft:

[/quote]

My plan was to use these, but scared drilling a hole will cause rust, for the rear i planned to install a plastic one in the rear light black plastic frame under the bootlid and ground on one of the light wires or bolts, would this work? As for the front i'm unsure though tbh.

**Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:57 am

It shouldn't rust behind it if you paint over it...

Drill hole
Paint over hole
Wait for paint to dry
Fit switch

**Joined:** Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:52 pm **Posts:** 5152

Ah right, what about the hole that the screw is screwed into?

I have fitted the switch today but gonna take it out and recoat with more paint and lacquer tomorrow to ensure.

Left the boot as it is triggered by the interior sensors anyway and I can't bare to drill into the boot lol

**Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:18 am

rather than a self tapper can you not drill a plain hole and nut and bolt it in?
or
look for an unused captive nut or stud?

**Joined:** Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:52 pm **Posts:** 5152

I sorted it a bit ago but thanks mate, managed to drill a hole and just painted over the hole then sealed the thread on the screw with sealer and the hole which should hopefully help, I'm hoping a hole like this wont rust much if at all anyway as all alarm fitters do it and I don't hear of any probs there.

Cheers

**Posted:** Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:02 pm

For those of you who have a FULL PREFORD car, I have finished my alarm today the wires you need for your unlock and lock function are as follows. . .

Lock - Green with white trace
Unlock - Green with red trace

Even though the haynes manual says the are the opposite way around, between me and Mr Spel we found the correct wires

**Posted:** Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:26 am

That's the same as post ford :shock:

**Posted:** Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:54 am

Really ?? I could have saved myself so much hassle.....

**Joined:** Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:50 pm **Posts:** 31

This tutorial is so good, I wish all the links still work damn.. I need pictures for reference and maybe wiring diagrams.. But thanks alot really helpful.

**Posted:** Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:17 pm

Any chance of pics being fixed? I'm tackling it this week.. :@

**Posted:** Mon Oct 13, 2014 9:26 am

The pics were on Lethagized's photobucket account, as he did the original guide - no idea where he is these days!

**Posted:** Mon Oct 13, 2014 3:15 pm

ok no worries, I'm doing it this week, so I'll get some if I can and use my PB account.

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