Any instructions tips on removing the head on a 1.5
Anyone ever attempted this?

Just 6 bolts I recon, If ur taking the head off id get new seals

It should be a gold colour inside

Ben

Yes I can see the bolts, any idea what size it is, I have an idea what to do, just wanted to see if anyone had actually removed it.
You will have to remove the camshaft as well.

[img]http://www.carltonmotorco.com/mazda/engine/Picture(7).jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.carltonmotorco.com/mazda/engine/8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.carltonmotorco.com/mazda/engine/Picture(9).jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.carltonmotorco.com/mazda/engine/Picture(10).jpg[/img]

Some pics of the 1.8 head, i reckon they share the same design.

Can see in the last pic there a head stud, looks like a torx/star drive bolt to me

Out of curiosity, the second to last picture...Is that the timing belt

[quote="DuFFMaN"]Out of curiosity, the second to last picture...Is that the timing belt [/quote]

Indeed yes, it is.

anyone taken the head off of a v6? still tempted but rather wary at the same time!

yes it looks the same as the 1.5 - 1998 , but does anyone know the torque settings for the bolts- head and camshaft.
This is something lacking on the site.

I'll look it up in my Haynes tonight (the torque settings, that is - what year is your 1.5 ? (I'm not sure if it matters, but just in case ...)

[quote="will"]anyone taken the head off of a v6? still tempted but rather wary at the same time!
[/quote]

Same here...

Andy

i havent taken the head off of a V6 personally but peeps on my club have, not a great deal of fun, jus removing the IM and the timing belt is fun enough, u guys have a bit more space in ur engine bays tho so it might be easier... Why would u wanna? headgasket?

It looks like my headgasket is leaking due to water in 3 cylinders. no oil in radiator or filler cap.

False alarm guys, I had washed the engine and water got into the plugs, its a long story.
When I removed the plugs water must have fallen into the cylinder.
Stupid me, I should have checked it, but it started ok.
This has reassured my faith in 323s.

[quote="trinie"]False alarm guys, I had washed the engine and water got into the plugs, its a long story.
When I removed the plugs water must have fallen into the cylinder.
Stupid me, I should have checked it, but it started ok.
This has reassured my faith in 323s.[/quote]

You silly Billy !!! Standard operation procedure - check for water in the plug tubes after washing the motor ! (Although I'm sure you know that now !)

Anyway, seeing as I prepared it all already, here's the tightening sequence and the engine torque settings (Removal would require the reverse of the tightening sequence ...)

[img]http://www.geocities.com/smotter.geo/Temp/HeadBoltSeq.jpg[/img]

Torque Specifications Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
===============================================
Camshaft sprocket bolt.................... 36 to 45
Camshaft thrust plate bolt (1.6L SOHC).... 69 to 95 in-lbs
Crankshaft pulley bolts................... 109 to 152 in-lbs
Crankshaft sprocket bolt.................. 116 to 123
Cylinder head bolts
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC, and 1.8L DOHC (through 1998) .. 56 to 60
1.5L DOHC, and all engines from 1999 on
Step 1................................... 12-16
Step 2.................. ................ Tighten an additional 85 to 95 degrees
Step 3................................... Tighten an additional 85 to 95 degrees
End plate bolts........................... 69 to 95 in-lbs
Engine mount bolts/nuts
No. 1 engine mount bracket bolts to engine 50 to 68
No. 1 engine rubber mount through-bolt.... 48 to 65
No. 1 engine mount to crossmember nut..... 50 to 65
No. 2 engine mount bracket bolts to engine 28 to 38
No. 2 engine mount bracket to crossmember. 28 to 38
No. 3 engine mount bracket to engine...... 55 to 77
No. 3 engine mount bracket small bolts ... 14 to 16
No. 3 engine mount bracket nuts........... 69 to 83
No. 3 engine mount brackets large bolt.... 50 to 68
No. 4 left (driver's side) engine/transaxle bracket-to-transaxle nuts ............. 50 to 68
No. 4 left (driver's side) engine/transaxle bracket-to-frame bolts.................. 32 to 44
Exhaust manifold bolts/nuts
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC ....................... 12 to 17
1.5L DOHC, 1.6L DOHC and 1.8L DOHC
Through 1998.............................. 28 to 34
1999 and later ........................... 14 to 21
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts/nuts.... 69 to 95 in-lbs
Exhaust pipe bracket bolts................. 27 to 38
Flywheel cover bolts
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC ....................... 27 to 38
1.5L and 1.8L DOHC........................ 48 to 65
Flywheel/driveplate bolts.................. 71 to 76
Intake manifold bolts ..................... 14 to 19
Oil pan Main Bearing Support Plate (MBSP) bolts... 12 to 15
Oil Pan Stiffener bolts (models with separate oil pan)... 27 to 38
Oil pan bolts.............................. 69 to 95 in-lbs
Oil pump bolts ............................ 14 to 19
Oil pump strainer.......................... 69 to 95 in-lbs
Rear cover screws.......................... 69 to 95 in-lbs
Rocker arm shaft bolts (1.6L and 1.8L SOHC) 16 to 21
Tensioner pulley bolt
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC........................ 14 to 19
1.5L and 1.8L DOHC........................ 28 to 38
Timing belt idler pulley bolts
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC ........................ 14 to 19
1.5L DOHC, 1.6L DOHC, and 1.8L DOHC....... 28 to 38
Timing belt cover bolts ................... 70 to 95 in-lbs
Valve cover bolts
1.6L and 1.8L SOHC ....................... 43 to 78 in-lbs
1.5L DOHC................................. 61 to 95 in-lbs
1.8L DOHC
Two bolts at end of valve cover............ 69 to 95 in-lbs
Screws on top of valve cover............... 43 to 78 in-lbs
Water pump pulley.......................... 70 to 95 in-lbs

Yes this is what happens when you cut corners.
At least we got this for information which should be put under the technical section.
Also while reading another post it had information about removing the camshaft, I was surprised to learn that it was hollow and you had to be very careful removing it in a particular sequence.
by the way I presume this info also applies to the 1.5 1998
This is the sort of technical info we need on the club, great job mate.
I also have a 1.8 which will come in useful. Nice increase in power, just right for the 323, have not modified it yet.
Maybe a good thing or bad only time will tell, I think I have made my cat into a free flowing one or blown it altogether, cause bits of the cat came out of the exhaust glowing hot. Anyone experienced this, has the explosion blown the cat .
What is the size of the torx head bolt on the head, I will get a set cause mazda seems to use it a lot and I have 3 motors to look after.

I hope the torx bolt is the same size as the VW one, 'cause I've all ready got one of those in my socket set.

PS : Sorry about the alignment of the above torque table - unispace fonts don't seem to be available for postings. However, if you cut & paste into "notepad", the whole thing should fall into place nicely.

trinie,

You'd also probably read that you have to be carefull when removing the camshafts (as you say, I think they're hollow). You must loosen each clamp bolt a little at a time to keep the load on the shaft fairly even.

I have read about people snapping them by just undoing the clamps at one end #-o

[quote="trinie"]At least we got this for information which should be put under the technical section.
[/quote]
Done.

Mark

[quote="Mark.T"]I have read about people snapping them by just undoing the clamps at one end #-o

Mark[/quote]

Ouch ! Sounds expensive !

I'm halfway through replacing the head gasket on my trusty 1996 1.8 (128k on the clock). The head bolts aren't Torx, they're 12mm BiHex. Any standard 12mm bihex socket should fit, but because they are so tight and I was scared of my cheap socket rounding them off, i bought a new Britool deep socket that whipped them off no problem.
I've been taking pictures as I go (so I can hopefully get all the pipes and wires back in the right places!), and will happily pass them on to anyone who might need them.

That will be a great resource to have, hopefully I will not need to use it.
Are you going to polish the ports while you have the head off.
by the way Does anyone know the compression of the engines, I want to get a tester to check mine but I have no idea what the normal readings are.

I had thought about tinkering around with the inside of the head, but it seems reasonably smooth, and I just want to get her back on the road, so am not bothering. Just need to scrounge a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts up properly.
Lots of tippex would be my recommendation for getting it all back together again. Before you break any pipe or electrical connection, mark both parts with tippex - 1 dot each side on the first pipe, 2 dots either side on the second pipe, 3 dots on the third etc etc. It's a good time to change the distributer O ring too, I got one in the head gasket set I bought. Mine was leaking oil all down the front of the engine.

If your distributer o-ring was leaking, check your radiator hose - the big one that runs under the distributor. Oil toes terrible things to rubber - mine burst a few weeks ago. Mght be a good time to fit a new one while you're doing all the work ...

Also, when you torque the head down, do it in several stages. For the '96 1.6 DOHC, my Haynes recommends 56-60 Ft-lbs. Do them to say 45, then 50, then 55 and then 60. It's also a good idea to double check after you've done a couple of hundred miles, to allow for settling in ...

Oh yeah - just in case : the torque for the Camshaft bearing caps is 100-125 in-lbs (NB : Inches, NOT Feet ...) also in several steps ...