Can anyone advise of a safe jacking position and axle stand position for the rear of the BG, please? I want to avoid the rear sill jacking points.

I need to raise the back end but as I'm not yet familiar with the car's underside geography, I'm not sure what's safe and strong and what isn't.

I have a race jack so I want to lift it high and get the stands under there somewhere.

Thanks!

S

Hi Serena,
I've always used the sill jacking points, that's what's recommended.

Sometimes experimented with parts of the rear suspension, i.e. where the arms join the chassis/body, but I don't honestly think I'd lie under the car in that situation. The problem with any BG now is the structure will be weak with rust, so jack it under something that's solid!

Do you need to remove the wheels? An option (if you don't) is to use ramps. I've recently changed the old metal-rung ramps for a plastic set, and despite initially baulking at the word "plastic", they are brilliant.

I'm guessing you're welding the rear sills, though, so you'd need a hefty asbestos/heat-proof board between the sill and the tyre!

Thanks Peter.

Yes, there was a weld put in on each side inside the rear wheel arch, for the last MOT the car had before I bought the car; but I've discovered that they've not been brilliantly done (annoying that they've done a bodge job on such an otherwise clean little car) and I need to get them re-done before I can get a MOT. On one side there is now also a small hole in the panel underneath, near the jacking point. The superstructure itself seems fine, but I don't want to risk using the jacking point.

I've been jacking it up on the front jacking point (which is fine) but that doesn't get me much height.

The BA has safe spots at either end (and on the V6 there's a specific jacking point in the middle of the front subframe) but there's nowhere obvious on the BG!

I might need to buy a different type of jack or lifting device, to get it up safely without damaging anything, so I can get someone in to do the welding for me.

S

Hi Serena
Not tried on a BG but I've used strong metal beams with several wooden blocks, to distribute the weight across delicate areas. Some planning along the lines of: pick a few sound places and place solid wood blocks there, then experiment with a beam of metal to lift all the blocks together. This can work even on dodgy jack points, certainly enough to then put stands under the rear subframe. I also use old tryes and planks to supplement axle stands, again lets the weight be distributed over larger areas