Thanks

Changed the air filter but not the fuel filter. I was on the verge of ordering a fuel filter when the spark plug messed things up. It might be the spark plug but I don't think I can change it as I tried swapping the plug and the other one was grinding and wasn't going in freely, so the threading must be gone within the engine head. I know the spark plug thread (at the bottom) has gone and took ages trying to get it out.

well if it was the spark plug i would of thought that the problem would be there all the time and would cause a miss fire which you would notice when driving.

Went and got some new spark plugs today

worked on the car with my brother in law and worked out what the problems are ('',)

Spark plugs could do with a change but its mainly the Mass Air Flow Meter, I need a new one

Well before you change it have you tried resetting the ECU... Basically just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect and the ECU will go back to standard but if not then start looking for a MAF... I think MarshyMob might have one in his breakers thread

I'll give the ECU a reset, will it really reset that way?

yes it really does reset just like that

lol Nice

Thanks guys.

I'll try that tomorrow.

I just had my 2L KF replaced with the 2.5 KL but, at least for now, kept the manifolds.

I've had that happen with the old engine and it happens even more when turning the steering wheel lock to lock quickly while parking at home (which I don't tend to do slowly)
.. And it briefly vanished after replacing the distributor. Before that it briefly vanished when I rebuilt the old one.
The new engine does it a bit too, but being ...upgraded, much less so far.

Your very helpful writing really makes it look like time for an adjustment.

Hi guys i was looking for another thread named @one stop shop for idling trouble@ or something close to that. I have a Maz 323 with a BA Z5 engine and has been idling erratically with revs sometime going up to 2500 and down to stalling. This was a bummer. After checking the EGR,MAF,TPS,O2, and cleaned the Throttle body and IACV the problem persisted. Finally i tracked it down to a vacuum leak in the plastic container linked with a hose to the left of the throttle body. This reservoir like bottle/container had split from the mould in the middle. After i epoxied the mould joints again the problem disappeared!



It would be kind for the administrator to paste this message in the thread "one stop shop for erratic idling..."

I know it's too late now, but for what it's worth, I had a similar problem.

I'm currently (not driving due to sickness, but that aside) driving with a KL-DE engine with the manifolds from the KF engine for now and long before that upgrade, when it was the KF, I had to replace the pipe that the (KF equivalent of) reservoir you've photographed was connected to, linking the air mass sensor with the throttle body having that reservoir in between. The Internet is littered with pictures of this pipe from people who have wrapped it in masses of tape. I forked out for a Mazda one and, to my delight, found that it was a very different material, much more like rubber than that hard plastic which, let's face it, under almost any hood is reaching it's cracking age.

Years ago when I got the car and got the ZF engine rebuilt, they had lots of such components to replace particularly the resonators for the VRIS system. I'm wondering if that could use another check because I'm not sure I'm getting full use of VRIS.

Last thing which might be of any help, my symptoms were a little different. It was idling rough simoy because air was entering without passing the air mass flow sensor, so not being measured, so not being complimented by enough fuel, and sometimes under heavy acceleration there were sort of 'flat spots' like a carb would give you if one of the jets were clogged. This engine produces a lot of suction in the intake manifold, when you open the throttle under the hood you hear a lot of hissing, even after the engine stops there's a little hiss as the pressure in that pipe catches up to atmospheric (now that the leak is gone)
In my case, the flat spot ended because at a point with the throttle open (remembering it's on the other side of the leak in this case) the vacuum in the pipe increased enough to contract it and largely close the leak. I'm looking carefully at your engine and the pipe

I'm looking closely at yours though and if I'm reading it correctly, yours seems to be attached passed the throttle body. That means that it could explain higher revs than asked for as it's letting air straight into the plenum chamber past the throttle flap. Not only is it unmeasured (for matching fuel), it's unrestricted.

I'm very sorry we couldn't have saved you some time on this one, xufier320.

If you've got any more arts made out of that plastic that are between the air filter and the intake valve, they're worth checking, they like to crack and leak.
I'm not sure how the supply chain here in Australia compares with yours, but I forked out maybe $80 (Australian $ are very marginally above $USD) for a genuine Mazda one and it was quite worth it because it was rubber, not hard fail some plastic as the engine was born with. Incidentally, in the wreckers, you can see plenty more plastic ones failing.

If I could administer I'd change the subject of the post as you suggest. It's such a common thing it deserves more attention in the hope of saving more people more diagnostic time and hair torn out.

I thought i had similar problems when i had a 1.8 ba years back and it also surged under acceleration. I think in the end it was the ballast resistor in the distributor causing the issue. A friend also had a Chrysler which used to do similar because it ran so lean for emissions so we ordered hotter rated irridium plugs and it cured it and extended plug life.