HELP !!
Hello folks.
As a previous owner of a 1.5 ba I totally fell in love with these cars.
Last year I upgraded to a zxi v6 that I got for a reasonable price as it had some issues, but its been a good runner and I love it to bits..

3 weeks ago it blew a spark plug out of the head, stripping the thread.
I've been advised by a local garage it needs helicoil.
They've given me what I consider a "we can't really be bothered, but we'll do it for a stupidly high price" quote..

Tbh I'm not a "petrol head", but I do understand this is a complex and tricky job and its not something I could do myself ( I'm an absolutely useless mechanic)

PLEASE can anyone recommend an independent garage/mechanic that understands these cars/engines that I can talk to about getting my car fixed?
I'm missing it so much and I'm dreading having to sell/scrap it.


I'm in Gloucestershire.

Many thanks and kind regards.

Out of curiosity, would you be willing to share how much they quoted?
Is it front or rear bank? Front would be an easy job but for the rear I'd say you'll probably have to take the inlet manifold off to get enough space to do the job. This could be whats inflating the price even though it takes about 5 minutes to take it off if you know what you're doing.

Thanks for the response.
It's the rear bank, first port from the left (if you're stood in front).
I've been quoted £1300.

[quote="Drummerbloke"]Thanks for the response.
It's the rear bank, first port from the left (if you're stood in front).
I've been quoted £1300.[/quote]
Jesus wept!!!! That's utterly ridiculous money!!!

Have you been to any other garages and asked them for a quote? Thinking about it, you might have to take the head off to do it properly as it would be impossible to install a helicoil and catch the crap from the inside....that might be why the quote is so high.

I know you've stated that you're a useless mechanic, but could you remove the intake manifold and head yourself? You could simply take it along to a machine shop and get them to do it then for a fraction of the price? OR do you have any friends who might be able to take it apart for you?

you could try something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/V-Coil-14mm-Sp ... B00EO4OC7A

But then having never done the job before, I'm unsure as to how you stop any debris from the process from going places you don't want it to. Might be worth a shot rather than paying £1300 anyway

Hi,

£1,300?? Holy crap.

I'm sure someone in the club talked last week about replacing a stripped plug - I'll check that now.

Lee's right, the manifold comes off fairly quickly, but it does have a lot of connections going on so you need to be methodical and label everything. But it IS doable, so don't panic. The real issue is what damage the blown plug might have done, and whether - as Lee suggests - it involves the head.

Did they give you a full report on the damage? If so, post it here, or tell us precisely what they said.

I removed the manifold last year on my V6 with a little advice from the club here. I'm in Wolverhampton so I could possibly come down and help you with that part of it, purely as I now know what I'm looking at, although I haven't dealt with stripped spark plug threads before so someone else would need to deal with that.

Also, whilst the manifold was off, then depending on the procedure for dealing with the spark plug, you'd probably need to remove the rear cam cover, in which case you need to get a new gasket for that. They are still available and that's an easy job, and worthwhile anyway as the rear cam cover on the V6 is notorious for leaky gaskets, and a bugger to get to (because of having to remove the manifold).

S

Or you could buy a second hand rear head and just swap it.
It will not be as cheap as a thread insert, but you will be more calm knowing everything's ok.
One friend of mine, had the same problem with his BMW, he put those thread inserts and spit it out the same way as the spark plug just month after the intervention.
He ended up buying another head and drove it 6-7 more years after that.

Todor, you're a star! You've just reminded me that I have a spare V6 engine sitting in my workshop in pieces ... I was going to scrap it as I thought it would never run again, but if the rear head would help keep Drummerbloke's V6 on the road, he's welcome to it.

S

Serena just messaged me and pointed me to this thread - HOLY HELL £1300 I'll do it for £1250

The kit Lerch linked to is basically what you need, though this is the one I used recently on my mum's Ford Slowcus: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spark-Plug-Thr ... pons&psc=1

The rear bank is a bit of a pain - as Lerch said, you'd need to take the intake manifold off to get access, but then you slap some grease on the tool linked above (to catch any chips from the threading process), put the tool in the plug hole, put a socket on it and press down HARD while you turn it clockwise. You should notice eventually it gets easier to turn - this is where it's finished reaming the hole, and it's now just threading. Keep turning until it bottoms out (either in the head or by touching the piston). At this point, stop, back it out and clean the tool. Fresh grease, and repeat the process (just to clean the threads and remove any stubborn chips). If you have access to compressed air, blow some into the plug hole to clean out any real stubborn chips, but if not, you'll have to just hope there aren't any

Put the longest thread insert onto the spark plug (the longest that fits without covering the tip), then screw that into the head. Tighten the spark plug as normal, then stick the intake manifold back on, HT leads back on, drive it like you stole it

EDIT: Gloucester is a bit of a mission for me to get to you with tools, but if you fancy limping it to Northamptonshire on 5 cylinders, I'll do it for a couple of bottles of cider I already have the tool and a couple of spare inserts

For that price you could probably buy another engine and have it fitted, hell, even buy another car and take the engine out and fit it lol... KL 2.5 anyone lol

[quote="HughieW"]EDIT: Gloucester is a bit of a mission for me to get to you with tools, but if you fancy limping it to Northamptonshire on 5 cylinders, I'll do it for a couple of bottles of cider I already have the tool and a couple of spare inserts [/quote]

He doesn't drink cider! He's trying to look cool......2 bottles of blue WKD would be more suitable for Hughie

As an addition, I've just watched 3 videos on youtube of how to do it with one of the tools previously mentioned, looks pretty easy to me!

@Drummerbloke: limping up to Corby with 2 bottles of cider, vs £1,300 or scrapping the car ... I think your decision is made for you, chap!

And after that's fixed, get it to a show so we can all have a look

If you're not confident at mechanics, joining the club is your best option for keeping it on the road, particularly as you'll also be able to better source many of the parts - scarce V6 stuff in particular

S

[quote="Lerch"][quote="HughieW"]EDIT: Gloucester is a bit of a mission for me to get to you with tools, but if you fancy limping it to Northamptonshire on 5 cylinders, I'll do it for a couple of bottles of cider I already have the tool and a couple of spare inserts [/quote]

He doesn't drink cider! He's trying to look cool......2 bottles of blue WKD would be more suitable for Hughie

As an addition, I've just watched 3 videos on youtube of how to do it with one of the tools previously mentioned, looks pretty easy to me! [/quote]
I will cut you

EDIT: Yeah as the fat moron says, it's not a particularly difficult job, as long as you've got the right tool and a socket set, and you're confident enough to take the intake manifold off Warning before you look at that - there's a bracket on the back of the engine underneath which is right....erm.... female-genitals to get to

Helicoiling heads is something diesel mechanics do as a matter of course to replace dud glow plugs- especially 2010 Subaru diesels! So you could try contacting one of them. It's generally done in-situ on the Subarus- the factory even had a procedure for it.

[b]Patrick[/b]

Hello.
Firstly, sincere thanks to you all for the informative and entertaining responses.

Here's the full situation, local garage has quoted me the £1300 for removal of the rear bank head, then I have to take it to a different engineering company to fit helicoil, then local garage will rebuild..

I need to replace rocker gasket on front bank as well cuz of slight oil leak, but their quote doesn't cover that.
I'm also guessing it'd be best to replace the cam belt at same time as all this is being done as I figure it'll save time/money.

The car has done 96k so I reckon its got a bit of life in it yet?

As far as me doing the work, honestly I'm better at brain surgery than at mechanics (and I've already killed 3 patients).

So I'm truly nervous about *@*#ing things up, and I have no tools other than a cheapo socket set, also my work schedule is somewhat unpredictable (touring musician) so I don't wanna start the job myself and find I lack the knowledge or time to complete it properly.

I'd be more than willing to compensate anyone who has the time to help me get this work done.
(There are a few other issues like it needs a new exhaust system and I'd intended to get it resprayed/wrapped at some point)
Really I just want to make it as nice as possible to preserve it rather than go all out modding it for speed etc..
I guess joining the club is a sensible course..

I just love these cars.

Also, I'm not averse to buying another one in better condition but they're few and far between it seems..

At least you guys have lifted my spirits a bit about all this, many thanks..

Yeh, it's a proper comedy show around here

Well, rather than spending £1,300 on removing the rear bank, even before helicoil and rebuild (I need a triple gin just [i]thinking[/i] about that, it's absolutely insane), I suggest getting it to Hughie as he's kindly offered and it will only cost you petrol to get it up there, plus the cider, or diesel, or whatever fluid it is that the poor soul imbibes in the darkness of his workshop. Sandwiches keep him working as well

The good news about changing the front rocker cover gasket is that it will cost £6-£8 for the gasket and maybe £3 for a tube of sealant. The job shouldn't even take an hour, plus curing time for the sealant. So you don't even need a quote for that, it's so minor. FGS don't take it to a garage and pay £100+ for the job, probably any of us can do that for you, or teach you how to do it (it's probably one of the most basic jobs on the car).

However, most BAs leak slightly from their rocker covers, so unless you have oil literally peeing all over the floor, don't even think about that at the moment, just prioritise the dead plug.

As for cam belt, do you know when it was last changed? Normally it's around 60k or so first time, so if yours was changed on schedule and the car has only done 96k now then you're still well within tolerance. Also, good news: the BA engines are "safe" or "non-interference" engines, which means that if the belt did snap, it won't damage the engine; you just fit a new belt. So, don't worry about that at the moment either, as it probably doesn't need it yet and even if the belt did snap, it's not a disaster. Get it done at some point soonish, yes, by all means; but don't lose sleep over it not being done immediately.

[quote]The car has done 96k so I reckon its got a bit of life in it yet?[/quote]
The engines on these cars are pretty much bombproof, and will outlast the rest of the car. My P-reg 1.5 has done 170k, I believe club sec AndyM's M-reg did 200+ ... yours is pretty low mileage for the age of the car and assuming it wasn't abused by a previous owner, and if you look after it from now on, it should give you at least another 100k

[quote]Also, I'm not averse to buying another one in better condition but they're few and far between it seems.[/quote]
Last time I checked, there were only 100 V6s left on the road in UK, and another 100 on SORN. So, there are very few around. You might get lucky and find a really good one - we've had 2 or 3 offered on here lately - but you're probably better off just preserving yours and making it the best you can.

And er ... welcome to the club! If you're on the forum, essentially you're a member. That doesn't place any obligation on you (gold membership supports the club administratively but it's completely voluntary), you can just hang around here, talk BAs and watch Lee and Hughie abuse each other

S

[quote]Here's the full situation, local garage has quoted me the £1300 for removal of the rear bank head, then I have to take it to a different engineering company to fit helicoil, then local garage will rebuild..[/quote] I'd have a few choice words for that garage!

[quote]I need to replace rocker gasket on front bank as well cuz of slight oil leak, but their quote doesn't cover that.[/quote] Super simply job, even with your el-cheapo socket set - 10mm socket, stanley knife and some RTV is all you need

[quote]I'm also guessing it'd be best to replace the cam belt at same time as all this is being done as I figure it'll save time/money.[/quote]If you're going through the headache of having the head removed (haha headache... get it? no? okay I'll continue) then yeah you're right, but if you're doing it in situ then there's no reason to do the belt at the same time. However, the belt and water pump are best replaced together, and aren't THAT bad of a job - hardest bit is getting the crank pulley off! Even with that struggle, managed it in about 5 hours I think (2 of which being the damn crank pulley )

[quote]As far as me doing the work, honestly I'm better at brain surgery than at mechanics (and I've already killed 3 patients).[/quote] 3 isn't THAT big a number

If you're happy limping it 2 hours up the motorway, I'll happily help you with it. I'd leave the head in place, quickly swap out the front camcover gasket, remove the intake manifold, ream and tap the duff spark plug hole, re-fit the intake manifold, job done Could take a look at the cambelt too while we're in there, to see what state it's in - if it's in good condition, I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's showing cracks across the belt (in line with the teeth), it's past its best and needs replacing - don't have to do that at the same time but put it on your list Even then, don't get a garage to quote you £96 billion to do it, blast up the motorway and I'll give you a hand - save yourself £95,999,999,900

[quote]And er ... welcome to the club! If you're on the forum, essentially you're a member. That doesn't place any obligation on you (gold membership supports the club administratively but it's completely voluntary), you can just hang around here, talk BAs and watch Lee and Hughie abuse each other [/quote] Erm... excuse me?!?! Lee and I are nothing but nice to each other even just yesterday I text him to tell him what a lovely chap he is Well, it said "You are such a...."

Serious post time...

If you want to do the cambelt, do the water pump and tensioner at the same time, as they're "while you're in there" jobs. Also worth throwing on new accessory belts if you can, as you've gotta take them off anyway. But if the car is non-essential, leave it for now - worry about it when you know it's closer to failing.

Camcover gasket - the only time I'll say don't scrimp, get genuine Mazda ones. Aftermarket ones leak, no matter how fancy you get with your RTV sealant. Also, get front and rear - might aswell do the rear one while the intake manifold is off.

Exhaust - the v6 LOVES a nice exhaust system! Get one made up by a powerflow dealer (or similar), following the original layout of the system (centre silencer, rear silencer along the back), it'll sound LOVELY

Respray/wrap - don't wrap it, it doesn't look as good and doesn't last very long Fix any rust, touch up the paint and give it a damn good polish, or splash out on a full outer-body respray (but that'll cost you about what you were quoted for the head replacement!)

[quote="HughieW"]Serious post time...



Camcover gasket - the only time I'll say don't scrimp, get genuine Mazda ones. Aftermarket ones leak, no matter how fancy you get with your RTV sealant. Also, get front and rear - might aswell do the rear one while the intake manifold is off.

[/quote]

Too right, I've had to redo both of mine, partly 'cos I believe I didn't torque it down right (no torque wrench and not tight enough) for the rear bank and the front not enough sealant. To be safe for the rear as such a job taking all the bits off just to change the gasket I bought genuine for £27 odd and a 2 day wait from Europe straight to my main dealer, plus it fitted better too and for the moment the engine is drying out but not dripping anymore!

Yeah I went through a couple of aftermarket ones, never got them to seal, even bought a new camcover Just trumped up for a Mazda one, fitted it, no leaks (even with my old warped camcover )

With the RTV sealant, less is more! Make sure the surfaces are clean, and it's just a pea-sized blob in the sharp corners (where the head bumps up over the distributor and camshafts) - that's all you need! Then it's 5-9 NM of torque on the camcover bolts (or I just use the socket and extension without the ratchet like a screwdriver, and do it as hard as I can

[quote="HughieW"][quote]And er ... welcome to the club! If you're on the forum, essentially you're a member. That doesn't place any obligation on you (gold membership supports the club administratively but it's completely voluntary), you can just hang around here, talk BAs and watch Lee and Hughie abuse each other [/quote] Erm... excuse me?!?! Lee and I are nothing but nice to each other even just yesterday I text him to tell him what a lovely chap he is Well, it said "You are such a...." [/quote]
Don't talk to me or ever mention my name ever again you utter imbecile!!! Maniac

Just read through the whole post and it's escalated from a spark plug helicoil to cam belt, water pump, tensioners, both gaskets, re-spray, exhaust XD just made me laugh

If you want to limp it up to Hughies for the day - I'll come along and help out bring gaskets and we'll do it at the same time

[quote="Lerch"]If you want to limp it up to Hughies for the day - I'll come along and help out bring gaskets and we'll do it at the same time [/quote]
Ditto, I'll bring the popcorn

S

This thread shows what a wonderful place the club is!!!
Just my own observations on the above posts:-
(1) If I was a garage estimator then I would definitely include head removal/replacement in the quote.
(2) If I was a reputable garage then I'd actually remove the head when doing the job, not just charge for it
(3) If Hughie and Lerch say it can be done without removing the head then it probably can, but actually I can't see how you can be sure to remove every single little bit of metal from the combustion chamber; remember that if any gets on the valves or in the cylinder bores then it will cause damage;
(4) On the amazon link posted above you can scroll down to the user reviews where it says you do need to remove the head, and then once you do it's best reamed-out/re-threaded from the bottom up; I've never done this job myself though;
(5) If you're tempted to drive it on 5 cylinders with a missing or loose spark plug then I'd guess you need to disconnect that injector first, otherwise combustible fuel/air mixture will be sprayed all round the engine compartment. (P.S. I've never driven a car in this state, so I'm guessing a little).

You folks are diamonds.

OK, it seems a trip up to see Hughie is the consensus.
Once again, thanks to all of you for your kindness and help..

I'm getting the car back from the garage on Monday when I return home.
I'll contact Hughie on this forum when I work out how to use private messaging on here. ( I'm such a numpty)

Serena J
Maybe you could "reserve" that spare head you have? Just in case I do need a replacement?

Cheers folks.

It can be done without removing head, but you have to be verry carefull and use the right tool for that.
Using a blind hole tap (spiral flute tap) will let you pull the chips(more likely strings) of the material.
Those taps make one long string from treading into materials.That way you could get away with not removing the head and there's some risk again.
Just for reference, picture of a blind hole/spiral flute tap:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/dp0uSRT.png[/img]

Crossing fingers all goes well!

Nice, Todor!

@Drummerbloke: To private message someone, use the "PM" button underneath their post. It will automatically quote the post concerned, but you can delete that.

[quote]Serena J
Maybe you could "reserve" that spare head you have? Just in case I do need a replacement?
[/quote]
Will do, it's not going anywhere - it's currently lurking at the back of my workshop in a binbag

I'll check it is actually the head in there and I've not had a complete brainstorm, and I'll check it wasn't damaged when I moved recently. Essentially when I picked up my V6 last year it came with 90% of another V6 in crates, and a spare engine, and to move that I had the former owner break the engine down into its component parts for transport.

S

Drummerbloke,

since too many mechanics spoil the garage (and won't fit in anyway ) plus I'm a tad too far away (like 17,000km) to realistically attend, I'll simply send my help in the form of moral support- and not only for the imbibing of beverages! I won't even send luck as you won't need it with all that super-competent help around you.

Do let us know how things get on with the mechanical work...how the helpers get on with each other could be entertaining though!

[b]Patrick[/b]

Get a bucket of popcorn!!!

As mentioned above, it's advised to remove the head for the very reason of ensuring no chips/swarf get into the combustion chamber. But, it's totally doable without removing the head, hence why these tools exist. It's how sump holes are often drilled for turbo oil returns without removing the sump - exactly the same process I've done it before - grease on the tap hole is the best way to ensure you don't get much in there, brake cleaner will remove the grease, squirt of air will blow out any remaining debris but if you'd rather remove the head to be safe, then that's where your cost comes in. A third option, is simply swapping out the whole engine for a replacement - it's actually quicker/cheaper/easier than doing just a head

But like I say, done it before - mum's Slowcus is still running like a top

PM received chap, will read it now

How'd you get on? Another Mazda all fixed up an back on the road? Hope all is well