It's a BA 1.5 petrol model with the oil leak. I have a diesel BJ model as well, sorry for the confusion
I have ordered the O ring, it's arriving tomorrow.

So I guess this leak looks bad for a distributor O ring leak?

[quote="diesel323"]So I guess this leak looks bad for a distributor O ring leak?[/quote]

Yup !!! The rubber goes hard with age, then cracks up. You'll probably find the old O-Ring will come out in a handful of fragments ! I don't think the O-Ring manufacturers are used to cars that are still running with the original motor after 10-12 years !!!

mine was the same as that, old owner musta left it for a while i guess

i actually changed mine today instead of next two days as i said i would... it took me aprox 30 mins... l surprised myself...

how ever i think i done something wrong, something doesnt feel right after this change... kinda like the engine sometimes hesitates or something...

what could i have done wrong?

everything is fitted back the way it should be...

Are you sure you've lined the distributor back up properly? Did you make a mark etc to make sure you got it right when you put it back on?

[quote="parvez"]Are you sure you've lined the distributor back up properly? Did you make a mark etc to make sure you got it right when you put it back on?[/quote]

I cant believe that i made the mark at the start and didn't even remember to line it up properly when finished... disturbed the timing right?

well i just been out in the cold again this morning and took it apart and lined it up correctly... after warming up and taking for a spin... it seems back to normal now...

Thanks Parvez..

Bingo !!!!

[quote="m7acx"]
I cant believe that i made the mark at the start and didn't even remember to line it up properly when finished... disturbed the timing right?

well i just been out in the cold again this morning and took it apart and lined it up correctly... after warming up and taking for a spin... it seems back to normal now...

Thanks Parvez..[/quote]

No worries mate, easily done. Glad to have helped. Indeed it does disturb the timing - watched Stu replace my dizzy o-ring so professionally a couple of months ago, marking it to perfection and pointing out the potential pitfall

ok, well its been about a week since i changed my o-ring....
it's all good....
i don't know what the connection is.... but... its obviously got alot colder since august/september and my car started smoking in the moring again for short while.... white smoke and its definitely wasn't condensation.....
however since i changed the o-ring.... i ain't been getting this white smoke on start.... well not like i used to... very little smoke.... i feel like i can call it normal so i will....

any thoughts anyone? obviously i very pleases about that....

Nice guide i may give this a go as ive started to notice some oil on the tube below, Anychance of getting the party number for a 1.8i glx?

99541-03801

[quote="Eire323f"]99541-03801 [/quote]

Leeggeeeennnddd thanks bud

[quote="Eire323f"]99541-03801 [/quote]

same dizzy unit as the 1.5 is it?

I'll double check for you.

Yep, according to the epc they are both the same part number

Its also the same for the MX5 stuck the code in google for the hell of it and came up with an MX5 part

got mine ordered should have it by tuesday the guy was saying grand total of around £2

Just bought one of these in my mazda garage and it seems as though there price has gone up cost me about £2.40 or just under, last time it was only about £1.90.
Inflation has caused the O ring to go up in price aswell lol

I need to change the whole distributor. I'm assuming it'll be the same procedure for removal as with the o ring replacement - but what do I do about re-alining the new dizzy to not put out the timing? Or am I being a bit thick?

Try and get it as close as possible to the original alignement and then do an ecu reset. This should correct any alignement issues. To reset the ecu all you do is disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and leave for at least 30 seconds and depress the brake pedal a couple of times before reconnecting. When you reconnect everything start the car and leave it run for a few minutes at idle and then bring it for a drive so the ecu can relearn the settings. Make sure you have any headunit/radio codes you might need before disconnecting or you may be without a radio untill you find the security code

Cheers - that sounds simple enough. The dealer wanted to charge me £350 for the dizzy and £50 for labour!!!!!
Now I just need to find a cheap distributor on the internet...

No probs That's what I did when I swapped dizzy's on the v6 and it worked a charm

scrap yard? i'll get a price from hellfrauds in a min if you like :P

there are 2 different dizzys for the BA 1.8

what engine do you have??

I don't really know - it's at the dealer at the moment, so I can't check. I know there are 4 and 5 HT lead dizzys, but I don't know which I need without opening the bonnet. They did tell me I needed a B6BF18200A distributor and a 9954103801 seal, but I've googled them and I don't get any luck, only Russian websites. I'm going to have to go down there and retrieve the car this weekend then check for myself.

I thought the 1.5 and 1.8 dizzy's were the same too and it was just a pre/post ford difference so you might be able to get one off a 1.5 I can't check the epc until I get home.

yep - you is right 1.5 and 1.8 are the same

you need a pre ford dizzy

I think I've tracked down the right part number but I'm not 100% sure - the number I've come up with is BP1A M3 T2T60371. I can't check the dizzy on my car because it's stuck in the dealership who don't seem to know their a from their elbow and don't have time to go out and lift the bonnet for me. Anyone else know if this is the right part for a 1995 323F GLXi 1.8L?

PM me your full reg and i'll let you know what dizzy you have

hmm, cant get a hit off your reg.....dont suppose you know your vin??