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Only323F
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:39 pm 
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Hello again,

As the title says, here's another interesting topic (I hope) for our 323Fs.

The question is this. I was wondering if our 323Fs' stock electrical wiring can handle the very high power draw of Fast Starting HID ballasts (like F3s or Hyluxs). A 35W fast starting HID ballast can reach (alone, not a pair) up to 8-9A of power draw, which is higher than 100W for a few seconds till it warms up.

Anyone having experience with 35W or 55W fast starting HIDs? Any issues with the electrical system?

Thanks.


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brucey76
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:33 pm 
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they are standard in rx8's tho some have xenon fitted in some models, the ballast for the rx8's are fitted in the headlight housing and the wiring going to the 8's headlights are the same if not thinner than my BA's were. they are 35W in my red rixer I've not had blue's headlights out yet but they will be out soon to clean the lenses


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Only323F
PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:39 pm 
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brucey76 wrote:
they are standard in rx8's tho some have xenon fitted in some models, the ballast for the rx8's are fitted in the headlight housing and the wiring going to the 8's headlights are the same if not thinner than my BA's were. they are 35W in my red rixer I've not had blue's headlights out yet but they will be out soon to clean the lenses


They have a fast-starting function? Probably they do since they're OEM. Also any danger with the fuse? 200+ Watts combined on cold start for a few seconds for both lights sounds like too much.

Thanks.


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:03 pm 
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Some general suggestions (not near my vehicle to check):

1) Fusing: What the fuse rating and is there one per headlamp? If it's 10A per headlamp and above it should be fine. If worried about the startup use slow-blow fuses.

2) Wiring: If worried you could use (if not already set up as such) the headlamp switch to switch relays which switch power directly from the battery. This will negate wiring issues on the main wiring (e.g. voltage drop) which may interfere with e.g. engine running, etc. You can also fuse separately (with an in-line fuse holder) and the battery will have no trouble running 200W for a short period (nor will the relays or the 30A wiring should you choose to install it). Done this with driving lamps on SH Forester. WARNING: if you do this, check for switch-to-ground on the headlamp switch.

3) Charging/main system: The vehicle shouldn't have a problem with an extra 10A or so, especially for a short period. Unless you are getting lots of them at the same time, e.g. headlamps AND rear demister AND front demister/fan AND wipers AND big subwoofer stereo AND etc.

Patrick


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Only323F
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 1:50 pm 
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pitrack_1 wrote:
Some general suggestions (not near my vehicle to check):

1) Fusing: What the fuse rating and is there one per headlamp? If it's 10A per headlamp and above it should be fine. If worried about the startup use slow-blow fuses.

2) Wiring: If worried you could use (if not already set up as such) the headlamp switch to switch relays which switch power directly from the battery. This will negate wiring issues on the main wiring (e.g. voltage drop) which may interfere with e.g. engine running, etc. You can also fuse separately (with an in-line fuse holder) and the battery will have no trouble running 200W for a short period (nor will the relays or the 30A wiring should you choose to install it). Done this with driving lamps on SH Forester. WARNING: if you do this, check for switch-to-ground on the headlamp switch.

3) Charging/main system: The vehicle shouldn't have a problem with an extra 10A or so, especially for a short period. Unless you are getting lots of them at the same time, e.g. headlamps AND rear demister AND front demister/fan AND wipers AND big subwoofer stereo AND etc.

Patrick


Cool, thanks for your answer. The manual suggests that there's 1 fuse responsible for the headlights of the car and it's rated at 60A. There's a separate 20A for the fog lights. So fuse wise, in theory 60A are enough for 8-9A from fast starting 35W ballasts + high-beams + parking lights all together. I was just skeptical. From my understanding, the 35W fast bright current draw is more or less the same to the power draw of a non-fast bright 55W HID set.


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:31 pm 
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The main problem with electronic and/or capacitive and/or inductive items can be the initial startup current- the 'inrush' current. This usually takes place in well than the first second of starting but can be very high- if you can remember the house lights momentarily dimming when an old compressor/fridge/AC started up you'll know what I mean. These can really tax a wiring/electrical system and even blow fuses (if not corrupt/blow ECUs).

You may find the following link (bit old, but anyway) interesting:

HID Startup current: Stock 55 watt, DDM 55 watt, HID50 50 watt

Patrick


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HughieW
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:43 pm 
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I never had a problem with any of mine, with a single exception. On the Mazda 6, the HID kit interferred with the radio - neither ever broke, but whenever I turned the headlights on, I would get no radio signal on any frequency. I fixed this by wiring the HIDs on their own power circuit, via a relay - there's a kit you can get cheaply on ebay to allow you to do this - essentially, the original headlight connectors go into the relay, which then turns on the standalone fused circuit from the battery which powers the HIDs. Problem solved!

Never had a problem with fast-start either - my RX8 does have this as standard, and has no issues whatsoever.

You'll be fine :thumbleft:

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Only323F
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:39 pm 
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HughieW wrote:
I never had a problem with any of mine, with a single exception. On the Mazda 6, the HID kit interferred with the radio - neither ever broke, but whenever I turned the headlights on, I would get no radio signal on any frequency. I fixed this by wiring the HIDs on their own power circuit, via a relay - there's a kit you can get cheaply on ebay to allow you to do this - essentially, the original headlight connectors go into the relay, which then turns on the standalone fused circuit from the battery which powers the HIDs. Problem solved!

Never had a problem with fast-start either - my RX8 does have this as standard, and has no issues whatsoever.

You'll be fine :thumbleft:


On 323F you have 55W or 35W HID? Also, are they fast bright? I was thinking of installing a relay harness but if the stock wiring is fine then I won't bother.


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Lerch
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 9:13 am 
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I always had 35W HID's on my F's although they were never fast bright and took about 8-10 seconds to really warm up. I think you can buy the more expensive kits which come with an extra component to boost the light up time - however, you might struggle for somewhere to hide the ballast etc.

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HughieW
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 2:03 pm 
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I think I had 35W on the 323F, 55w on the Mazda 6 and then whatever the RX8 comes with as stock :lol:

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Lerch
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 2:48 pm 
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HughieW wrote:
I think I had 35W on the 323F, 55w on the Mazda 6 and then whatever the RX8 comes with as stock :lol:

shut up meg!

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HughieW
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 2:59 pm 
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Only323F
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:29 pm 
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I'm between Hylux or F3 Fast Brights. I guess will go with the Hylux ones since they seem more popular. They both start quickly tho and consume around 8A each during startup. I'm not sure if our stock wiring is fine for that. Probably it is since the headlights got a 60A fuse according to the manual. Anyone knows if there's 1 fuse for both sides (low/high beams)?


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HughieW
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:55 pm 
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It'll be fine on the stock wiring, as it's not 8 amps continuous. Plus as you say, the fuse is designed to be the weakest point in the circuit, and that's at 60amps...

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