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col1944
 Post subject: rear baliper banjo bolts
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 1:40 pm 
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Hey guys--easy one this for some one----what diameter are the banjo bolts for the rear calipers on the 1998 323 ba v6 (sumitomo).
Fitted new rear discs and pads due to hardly any reading on the rear footbrake at last mot---pads were thin --more on outside than the inside pads--discs were rusted and black so not before time.
Got the n/s/r piston back in caliper with a lot of work but the o/s/r went in about half travel and stopped dead---I wound the adjuster out about 50 turns which I figured was as far as it would go but normal pressure with a 6" g cramp would not move it back the required extra 4mm to clear the inside pad so wound out the adjuster same amount as before--with a LARGE spanner on the G cramp the piston slowly moved back in to the stop(oh and yes I had clamped the brake hose and released the bleed nipple to take pressure off)--JOB DONE I thought closing the caliper and replacing the 10mm bolt---the result?-- after adjusting the handbrake cable and spinning the o/s wheel neither the handbrake nor the footbrake slowed the wheel at all!!!
Figuring the piston was seized permanently in the bore(found a small split in the piston cover and the last bit of piston was very rusty so I guess more corrosion further down.
Today I did what I should have in the first place and bought a new pair of calipers on Ebay-wont be here for another 7 days so wanted to get new copper washer for the hoses ready to fit the calipers and bleed in one go as I am doing the job with one wheel in the main road and the other on the pavement(oh for a drive in garage) but trawling ebay and ask wont tell me the size washers are fitted so---bit of a long story but anyone tell me if the copper washers are 10 or 12mm id ?????????


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pitrack_1
 Post subject: Re: rear caliper pistons
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Location: ACT, Australia
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(sorry not about the banjo bolts)

Are the pistons the wind-in type? I had a similar experience with my Mazda 3, until I got a wind-in tool with the appropriate adaptor plate I couldn't exert enough leverage (e.g. with needle nose pliers to wind or a G-clamp to push) to wind the piston back in.

Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 5:55 pm 
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Patrick, the winding is from the back of the calliper with one hidden alen key bolt (covered by another normal bolt)
The whole mechanism is internal, the piston does not turn, only the internal parts are.
Col1944,by memory the banjo bolt is 12mm, when i did my conversion i do changed the washers with new.For keeping you calm do buy both 10 and 12mm washers and be sure that you have the right part in you when you start changing callipers.It's better than dissasemble/scatter all parts realising you miss something that small, but that important!


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col1944
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 9:27 pm 
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Partrick--I know the tool you are mentioning which wouldn`t have helped because of the amount of obvious corrosion on the piston prob past the seal proved by the fact that pedal pressure would not move it out a fraction with hydraulic pressure from the brake pedal.
thanks for the post.

mazzda------had the same thought couple hours ago and ordered a pack of both sizes--guess I was trying to pinch a few pennies after adding together the cost of the discs/ pads/ and fitting kit/--when you are 74 and living on the old state pension you tend to think that way but at least I now have(with an auto bleed tool---no one around that I know to help with bleeding boo hoo)all the parts (already got the fluid!!) to get the maz stopping with all 4 brakes instead of 3.

SORRY ABOUT THE "BALIPER" BOLTS TYPING----- MUST HAVE FINGERS TOO FAT-- HAHA


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maZZda
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 2:58 pm 
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If you are on your own, there's a way!
Use the biggest syrgine you can find and bleed them from bottom to top!!
Works a charm.Just regularly look at the brake pedal reservoar and pull fluid from it (with another syrgine)so it won't overfill and spill it in engine bay.


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 4:37 pm 
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Mazzda, thanks for the info- sorry I am not familiar with that type of caliper.

Col1944, so sorry it seems your brakes are corroded and seized, also that you can't use a tool to assist. It make me worry about my 1994 model now...maybe a brake bleed should be on my priority list.

Patrick


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col1944
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2018 6:27 pm 
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hey guys I`m back again--finally got a weekend without rain so I can lay in the gutter to replace my rear discs/ pads /and most importantly brake calipers.
long story short---bought a £15 vac pump to do a "no one to assist" brake bleed---NFG---SO USED A "BET THAT WONT WORK LOOKS TOO SIMPLE AND TO CHEAP @£6"-- BLINDING LITTLE PIECE OF KIT--2 pieces of tight fitting clear tubing and an alloy non return valve 30mm long--about 8 pumps on the pedal each side and a nice firm pedal--job done(item on ebay).just need a few miles to bed the new pads in to get that rock solid pedal feel then another quick bleed again just to dispel any tiny lingering air bubbles.
I noticed that the supplied bleed nipples were slightly "wobbly" when loosened to bleed and after the main large air bubbles had dissipated kept getting a string of tinybubbles in the tubing after pedal let off so I have bought a pair of "autobleed nipples with a sealant on the threads making them tight even when loosened so will fit these before the final bleed after the pads are bedded in.
NOW IF I CAN ONLY GET THAT FREAKING ABS DASH LIGHT TO GO OFF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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