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maZZda
PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:45 pm 
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andym323 wrote:
Wish i could see the pics :(

You can't see them? :? Strange..
The pics are there.. maybe it's your browsers options or some glitch. :dontknow:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:54 pm 
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A friend of mine made me a gift:
Blue anodized aluminium cable clamps.. :D
They are for 12mm cables(mine are 10) and they move :lol:
(sorry for the dirty engine bay) no time to clean it :roll:

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maZZda
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:11 am 
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Changed spark leads yesterday..
Found out that 3-rd cilynder lead was with broken end at the dizzy..

Image

Have a nice New Year guys!


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:49 pm 
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Hi guys, just to show you what i got and will try to fit on the Z5.
Crankshaft pulley and alterator pulley for Subaru impreza i believe..

Image

Image

After searching alot, i choose this 15$ pulleys against the 80$(only crankshaft one) for a miata engine...
Well, they need a little bit of work to be mounted, but i'm sure they will fit..(one way or another) :roll:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 10:02 pm 
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Little bad news.After siting on idle waiting a friend the car suddenly died.I fire it up after that and it worked, but it did not hold idle any more.Injectors 254cc (from1.8 ) 1.5bar fuel pressure with 2 fuel pumps it last for more than year and a half.I suspected sparks,spark cables.Checked them all seemed to be fine.Changed them with new sparks, took the cables from the other(working F) same thing.No idle present.The car works fine revs good and died afret taking off the throtlle.I changed the injectors to the stock ones 161cc(z5).The car run smoothly but did not hold idle good.Only when hot.At cold it misfires and has to hold it with throtlle because it stalls.When i changed to 161cc injectors i rised up the fuel pressure to 3 bars (near stock pressure) but it still misfires and dies.After it get to work T it holds 750-800 and the misfire is gone. I did reset ECU when i changed the injectors so it should fire right with everything stock.The car does not rev itself when cold(it normally rize the rpms when cold to 1.5K)
Took off the throttle body, checked the idle air valve if its working correctly, everything seems alright but no idle on cold and it misfires 1 or 2 cylinders..
Today i put the pressure to 4 bars and saw some improovement, i think that lean mixture could be the case but not sure.Will check it on the morning when i start it cold.
If someone has any sugestions, please do share them!
Thanks!


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 11:16 am 
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2 ideas:

1) It could be running lean when cold idle... or it could be running too rich if you've played with the injectors and fuel pressure. Check the mixture, perhaps a O2 sensor up the exhaust.
2) Check for leaks in the inlet tract (pipes, manifold, gaskets) & no vacuum hoses etc have fallen off/are loose.
3) Check the ECU temp sensor & connection (not sensor for temp gauge if separate) is functioning correctly. If the car thinks it's hot then it won't enrich the mixture & advance the idle speed when cold.
4) And yes, I can't count! ;-)

Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 6:50 pm 
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First thanks for the ideas! :)

lean or rich could be the case, but why it died suddenly without any warning signs?The car was running just fine to the exact moment. :?

Little prehistory: I changed the intake and exhaust when i overhauled the engine,then the engine was with its own injectors (161cc) the car then ran lean after 3K rpm. I bought secondhand injectors from 1.8 wich i recently checked and they are 254cc.The car was on 6bar fuel pressure with 161cc and it was not enough,then i changed the inj. and turned down the pressure to 1bar.The car fired up, was lumpy died the first 10km of driving, but slowly it corrected the duty cycles and it began to run smoothly.
After that i made the pressure 1.5 bar and put second fuel pump for more fuel flow.
the car idle was present and not solid but there.When cold start the car first holded 1000rpms top, but after 1 month it goes to 1.3K and a year and a half no worries with cold starts,when it get hotter the revs drops on 750 and stayed there.And then pfff this thing happened.
I changed the injectors back to (161cc) reset the ecu,put new plugs in,changed the leads, put the fuel pressure to 4 bars now and still when cold started it does not hold revs and stutters it's almoust like misfires.. that's why i think it's a lean mixture..When i keep it revved for a minute or so it begin to hold lumpy but it holds low revs.After 3-4 mins it's clear revving, no "misfires" or some clue of failure.. it works like it should.Did i damaged the Ecu(cold start idlle) somehow!?!?
Why the ecu cannot couple with its own injectors(if it's OK) is a mistery to me..
The car was in this setup before.What could be wrong?
Itchy questions non the less. :roll:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 9:16 pm 
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After tons of lost time cleaning things,reseting anothers, calibrating sensors,measuring resistances and cheking cables(also opening the ECU for visual check) i finally started the car with another distributor.(from the blue F) :lol:
It all lies inside the distributor.. I will investigate which one is the causative agent in the dizzy this holyday.. maybe.. :roll:
Thanks to all the people who give me guidence and advices!
Update pics soon...


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 1:28 pm 
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Congrats on finding the problem.

Sounds a bit weird for the symptoms but glad you've found it in spite of me 'leading you up the garden path' (English saying meaning 'send you in the wrong direction') several times!

Well done!
Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 9:39 pm 
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Thanks!
No you didn't mislead me, i'm shocked also by the problem lying in the distributor instead somewhere else.The symptoms are really leading in a different direction..
Although the misfires and not revving can be caused by wrong or no ignition/timing pulse, wich is relatively matching dizzy problem.. thinking the advance of timing is determined by the ECU, it tells to the dizzy when to pop the spark but if the system is corrupted and fails on load this could be the case.
If there's no spark in the cylinders there's no BOOM, that causes the o2 sensor to show lean(because it didn't even burned any mixture) and oxygen concentration is high in exhaust..

I still has problems with cold start, this time the misfires are alot less, but they are present.Enough to cause fail on holding revs..
I have to sort this problem too.When it get hotter like 20C (while i hold it with the pedal to 1k rpm) and it begin to holds revs,when it get to work T the car is driveable,holds revs,revs good and pulls like a normal 1.5 :lol:
That's the case with "just trown inside distributor, tuned by and eye/ears" I didn't really cared about timing then, i just wanted to start the damn car. :bounce:
Now i'm searching for my stroboscope to be able to get the timing right and see if the cold startup is geting any better..
Also will investigate when and how the Blue F actuate the idle air valve on cold start and at work T.
I will check it on the silver F too for comparison, as i think that it doesn't work(especially when i load the car with cosumers)
Lots of work still, but everything step by step..
Now to see what is wrong with the old dizzy.. i took it apart and will try to measure the coil and MRE sensor for problems.. wish me luck! :D

Image

Image


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maZZda
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 9:25 pm 
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Update on the problem..
The car fires up now, bad again,cold it misfires(or burn in exhaust), when hot it idles,it's driveable when hot,low revs are holding with no IAC valve.The low revs are holding through the bypas of the TB(i unscrewed it alot) The IAC valve is working correctly but the ECU didnt operate it correctly.I measured it's resistance and it was 1.1 Ohm, the coil on the valve is good, i tried the valve on the blue F and it opened it 50% at 2-nd contact(ign. key contact) and holds it there.
The silver F however opens the valve 30-40% and immediately closes it to 99% :?
I get another ECU (with same numbers like mine on it) and tried to fire the car with it, no luck the immobiliser didn't allow it, but the "new" ECU opretates the valve the same way as my own ECU...
First 30-40% open for half a sec. and then 99% closed and humming like it's struggling..
So now i drove the car maybe 40km, 20 of them with disconected IAC valve and the car works like before i disconected it.That leaves me with the thoughts that the ECU is not operating the IAC like it should.That's why i got another ECU to confirm it.But then why whould the "new" ECU make the same thing??
Something else will be the causer.
Someone with fresh ideas??
Help, please! :)


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:45 pm 
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So:

- the IAC is closed when cold & the car won't idle without accelerator, but the car idles when hot.
- the (suspect) IAC works fine in a different car
- the (suspect) ECU is replaced for the same set of symptoms.

Therefore I'm deducing:
- The (suspect) ECU is not at fault
- The (suspect) IAC is probably not at fault

Theories/suspicions:
a) Have you done anything with the temp sensor for the ECU (not the temp gauge sensor)? It's like it's working in reverse- when the engine is cold it's closing the IAC rather than opening it more to allow a higher idle.
b) Have you done anything with the IAC wiring? If it's reversed the car could be trying to close the sensor first to 'zero' it but achieving the opposite- opening it partially (thinking it's setting it to closed). And then it's closing it thinking it's opening it, i.e. acting in reverse.

Suggestions:
1) Try a replacement IAC and see if the same symptoms happen.
2) Check what the car does with the IAC when the car is hot/at working Temp.
3) Disconnect the ECU temp sensor and start the car cold- this should throw a fault but see if the IAC holds open and the car starts.

Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:14 pm 
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Yes and no Patrick.
The car when hot idles thanks to the too much unscrewed bypas of the TB.It stalls and dies if i leave it from anything above 1K rpm.If i slow down on gear and put it in neutral just when the engine is at 800-900 rpms it holds the revs as the air is geting in trough the tiny hole of the bypas.When decelarating fast the tiny hole cannot cope with the demand of air because the engine decelerate fast and it dies.
The IAC valve works, yes.
The ECU operates the engine, yes, but not the IAC valve.
I have to admit i didn't thought about temp sensor as i believe it's only one(and the other is a switch for the fan) and i see the tepm gauge inside operating normaly.
I checked maybe 70% of the wiring of the entire car(mainly ECU cables to sensors and actuators) and all seemed fine.
I tried with whole other TB from the Blue F, the car worked but no low revs when warming.. hot it didn't hold them.
Also the Blue TB had the air valve(water temp. actuated) and there was low revs(2K) but after that(when it closed) the car died..=> no air for low revs again..
The car does nothing to the IAC valve when hot.. it's just humming and not opening.
I don't think that disconecting the T sensor will make any difference..fault code for sure,but this to make the car not driveable.. meh.. MAZDA engineers are stupid? I don't think so!
If the T sensor fails i think that the ECU will cope with this and will trow a fault like you said, and maybe the ECU will have gone to sevice mode and cope with the bad sensor to hold the engine running..(my thoughts)

Today actually i made some progress, i made bypass wiring directly from the battery to the IAC valve and used one adjustable resistance to simulate ECU signal.SUCCESS!!!
I successfully hold low revs when the car is cold,i could rev the car to 3K rpms just buy turning the resistance simulating ECU operation.The car warmed right,drives good(just someone have to play with the resistance so it closes the valve when accelerate and operate it when decelerate and idling)
I got one friend to do the monkey work :lol:
If i leave it open it slows the accelerating (little but still it do)
So the problem is there, no low revs caused by ECU? or T sensor? or something else?
D.mn! will this nightmare end? :roll:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 10:19 pm 
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Hi people, i'm just here to tell you that Anti is good.It works now, the whole problem with missing low revs was the IAC valve.I change it with a used one and the car fires and idlles fine.Now i need to figure out the leaning in high rpms...
The guy that helped me with the lightweight pulley is in hospital from a week or so (i known this just now) and the project with this pulley will be delayed like forever but hey, health comes first!
So now i really enjoy driving my car without any problems. :D :D :D


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 5:46 pm 
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Aaand now the bad news:
The compression on Anti is low on 2-nd and 4-th cyl.
Here is what i measured cold with stoped injectors and removed sparks cranking at WOT:

Image

Image

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I should measured it long ago, but has no doubts about it.. :lol:
I think that this loss of compression is the causer of the bad fires when cold and lumping low revs when hot.
I'm leaning towards valve clearanse failure, because i have no excessive crankcase breathing and the oil doesn't smell on petrol but not sure.The car was driven on LPG after the rebuild and it's known that LPG tends to tighten the clearence(even so tight that there is alomoust none)
So the rocker cover will be off maybe tommorow for measuring them. :roll:


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:26 am 
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Yes in Oz LPG is quite common and known to cause valve seat recession in cars not adapted for it. I haven't used LPG myself and I'm not sure of the details so the following are my thoughts/speculations/opinions:

I think
- it may mostly be the exhaust valves that wear as they are the hottest
- LPG runs/burns hotter than petrol this is what leads to the wear, it also may not possess the 'lubrication' and cooling effects of the petrol
- again I'm not sure but one 'trick' to check for leakage at the valves/ rings is (I think) to squirt some oil into the chamber and turn it over and see if the compression improves.
- I think you're likely to know more than I do so I'll be quiet now! :-)

Good luck, and well done for your continuoous investigation. Let us know the outcome!

Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:57 pm 
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You are on the right track with the oil in the chambers Patrick!Sadly, the compression tester is not my own and i don't want to contaminate it with oil.
The head will go out, it's a matter of time and ofcourse weather.Now is raining, i can't even measure the valve clearance..


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maZZda
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:18 pm 
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Well, today was a good sunny day and i couldn't help myself and did this:

Image

All intake valve recessed way much.. the clearance was smaller than 0.10mm :shock:
Exaust were 0.30mm wich is good..
Normally should be 0.25-0.31mm
No leakage, turned the head upside down,leveled it up and pour petrol in the recess for the valves and spark plugs with spark plugs in.I saw no majour leakage, just small spots of petrol from the ports side on the valves so they sealed up good.If they were worn and not sealing good the petrol should drain fast with drops..
It is strange, i did try to turn the buckets and shims before measuring their clearance and they turn by hand(that means that the valves are closed and no leak should be present) only thing that's left is the piston rings.. d.mn.. :(


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SerenaJ
PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:36 pm 
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My Car: BA '97 GXi, BA '98 ZXi

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So, what are your plans, now you've found this? :?

I'm learning lots from this thread ... I want to do the same thing with Sundance, but I'm not quite confident enough yet. And I'm slightly scared at what I might find! :shock:

S

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'Sundance' maintenance thread here (BA 1.5 GXi) - Proudly un-lowered!
'Butch' maintenance thread here (BA 2.0 V6 ZXi SE) - Now with power steering. Oooooh.


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maZZda
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 10:35 am 
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I will open the bottom of the engine and pull out the pistons for lnspection of the rings..
The cylinders doesn't look awfull, but they do seem a little worn.Will try to measure them up.
Also a friend of mine told me to bore the cylinders to match his old/spare Honda pistons and put them in(if they fit) so will investigate that case too.(cheaper parts and stronger pistons) :lol:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:33 pm 
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Today the weather is nice..

Image

..so pistons are out.No compression rings broken,oil rings are in great shape.Where is the error??
Well, the ring gaps/keys on 1-2-4-th cylinders on the compression rings was not on 120 degrees but one above another.. there i saw little blow by but not that much..
Will measure pistons and bores now..

Image

Image

Image

and here is the crack in the windshield..

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Image
:(


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maZZda
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:58 pm 
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I'm happy to report that the engine is good.I measured up all parts of the engine for wear and the overall wear was 0.06mm of the pistons and cylinder bores together. :D :D
For more than a 200K km that's really good.If the clock is right, and not rewinded as moust secondhand sellers here do.. :roll:
Her is one pic from the measuring of the bores with an inside caliper..

Image

The bottom end of the motor is now closed and i'm waiting new headgasket these days so to be able to put it back together and hear it's roar again..
I skimmed all intake shims so to make the needed valve gaps.. so this is still to be measured when head is on..
Hold fingers for Anti! :D


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pitrack_1
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 4:15 pm 
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Very good work!

These things do run to high kms in Oz (>400k km) so don't be surprised if that 200k km is real.

Patrick


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maZZda
PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 6:16 pm 
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The car started.It works smooth, no compression test yet(waiting the oil in cylinders to burn good)
The mounting of the pistons require oiling the bores and pistons,also headgasket is oiled too so it sealed better.Low revs were good.One thing that i saw was that again the car doesn't revs good and wanted more advancing on the timing from the dizzy.Wich is odd as i mounted it in the last position that it was(3 years now)with 6+ degrees over the stock ones and it was not enough :? .I turned it.The dizzy is in it's last position now(bigest advance),the car revs good.All intake valves have 0.30mm clearance(all exhaust also 0.30mm) so now the car should breath fine and hold compression..
It idles good,it holds revs good,revs to redline good and it cracked the radiator plastics.. d.mn... this nightmare has no end..
It's not enough that the windshield is cracked.. now this..
Someone, please, kill me...


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 8:56 pm 
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:D
Well, i changed the rad with another(3-rd one) second hand and started the car.. Idled for and hour or so and waited it to cool down.After that i measured the compression on each cylinder:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Really happy that the engine is good again.I changed head gasket,oil,filter,valve cover gasket + sealant,radiator and a bulb in the high beam lights
Skimmed the valve shims,cleaned pistons rings recess,aligned ring gaps correctly,tightened alot of bolts and the whole job took 200BGN from my wallet :D (well, alot of precious time too) but hey, as we say "The joy has no price"
I drove it 2-3km to smooth the rusted disks really and the car feels good.
Although the dizzy is turned in bigest advance and i flashed the car with my stroboscope this evening and saw 16-20 degrees BTDC wich is odd, for the stock injectors and slightly raised fuel pressure.. :roll:
Well, from now on i need to change the windshield(clean the car interior and exterior),make some adjustment to the engine so it run best,fit the lightweight pulley,and make the middle section exhaust line with the DIY silencer.Stay tuned! :D


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maZZda
PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 9:54 pm 
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Hi people,
as the car gets better(not fully recovered) i managed to do some DIY-ing on it.
Now Anti is with full stainless exhaust system with 2 options: with silencer or straight trought pipe.
Here is the new middle part wich i left for final work as i collected parts for building it.

Image

Image

Image

As i draw a sketch before the silencer is in the middle of the car with bypass straight trough tube, in the tunnel for the exhaust tube right below the handbrake cables.The desired effect wasn't present.Well, slightly yes but the silencer was not enough to lower the sound good.So me and my father opened it up and stuffed it with more wool so to silence the car abit more,even put a stainless mesh to prevent the car blow the wool troughtout the pipes but we failed miserably..Yes we did blow it all out, but the effect was present(for 5 min.) then it get noisy again.We will opened it again and do some more work so to prevent blowing the wool and to make the sweet silence i desire in sity driving.
And overall when you look beneath the car you can't see the muffler or the exhaust cutout(silencer bypass):

Image

So pretty happy about that "project" :D
Don't judge my weldings.. the only thing i'm interested in is if they hold.They hold, no leaks. i need some more practise.. :lol:


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maZZda
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 6:15 pm 
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Anti and Blue have a new tow Straps:

Image

Anti is with MOMO stitched logo to accompany the wheel spacers..

Image

Blue is with Sparco(because of the colour) :lol:
Now blue is lowered 30cm with H&R springs and there's some TLC on brakes and a new set of wheel nuts.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Staying stock it's something i can't do obviously.. :lol: :lol:


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SerenaJ
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 7:37 pm 
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Great stuff! :thumbleft:

I want tow straps for both my cars now. (Oh no, I'm giving in to modifications! HELP! :shock: :lol:)

I'm intrigued by the two-option exhaust. How do you change it, is it remote, or do you have to climb under the car to change it?

S

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"Never tell me the odds!"

"She'll hold together. (Please baby, hold together)"

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'Sundance' maintenance thread here (BA 1.5 GXi) - Proudly un-lowered!
'Butch' maintenance thread here (BA 2.0 V6 ZXi SE) - Now with power steering. Oooooh.


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maZZda
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 8:16 pm 
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Hi Serena, about the exhaust options, i can change it just using vaccum from the intake manifold.The "cut out"(it's a butterfly valve realy) in the straight pipe is with one vaccum cylinder wich operates it.The butterfly is normally open, but when vaccum occur the butterfly closes and force the gasses throughout the muffler.I will use one switch in the center console(where are all the switches i made) and will open and close it by one electromagnetic valve wich lets ambient air to the actuator(cylinder) and rises pressure so the butterfly opens.
About modding to tow strap, it's not that complicated but do need some drilling and cutting with anglegrinder, also painting the metal so it's protected(where you cut it)
I manage to made them pretty solid(they are attached to the stock tow hook body) and tried them so to be sure they hold. :thumbleft: Job done!
Sorry but i have no pictures of the work, i first do it on the silver and succeeded after 2-3 hours.Then the blue only take 30 minutes(no fog lights) :lol:
I can explane you the whole job, if you are interested :)
Cheers!

Edit: Butch is(or was) already half modded, so why not? :toothy8:


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CSR
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 10:48 pm 
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Hi MaZZda!

I follow your project but to be honest I don't understand much ... Im an amator in mecanic.

This sistem of Exhaust with two pipes (one with muffler and catalyst) and other straight without nothing, and a Butterfly bypass, I already saw in a SEAT IBIZA here... but to be honest, I did no fell a lot of difference in power... I mean, how many HP you think that will give you trully? (when activated to the straight pipe of course :D )


Also, in the Blue 323F you have a "LANTIS" logo under the side repeat! :shock: It was just like mine... I never saw other 323F with that sticker, only mine! (and know does not have because the whole car was painted)

Keep up!

CSR


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